tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7760206489926785062024-02-19T18:05:05.070-08:00Sailing with Mark and Vicki"I am a citizen of the most beautiful nation on earth. A nation whose laws are harsh yet simple, a nation that never cheats, which is immense and without borders, where life is lived in the present. In this limitless nation, this nation of wind, light, and peace, there is no other ruler beside the sea." - Bernard MoitessierMarkhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03558061978678166380noreply@blogger.comBlogger351125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-776020648992678506.post-67466564457247956892014-08-01T15:35:00.000-07:002014-11-17T15:38:56.748-08:00last blue water passage?After 3 days at Chesterfield Reef, it was time to start the final leg to Australia. We got a weather update and established a radio sked with the oddly-named boat anchored near us "Trybooking.com" and both boats headed out within an hour of each other. The western passage through the reef was straightforward, but we had to contend with about 2 knots of adverse current.
<p>
The passage started off well enough. The wind was out of the east, so both boats initially headed due south, hoping to make landfall at Coff's Harbour. But within a few hours, "Trybooking" hailed us on VHF and noted that a new weather forecast showed a developing low that would bring strong south winds within a few days. So we followed their example, and cracked off toward Bundaberg, about 3 days away.
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The rest of the passage was uneventful. We motorsailed at times when the wind died, and to help fight an eastgoing current around one of the reefs along the way, Bird Islet. Edward was comfortable in the dinette berth with his "big red girlfriend" (the genoa).
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I was getting more comfortable in my new role as cook!
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As we got within 50nm of the mainland, we crossed the north-south shipping lanes, and had to dodge nearly a dozen vessels. But visibility was fine and there were no issues. For most of the last day on passage, winds were light out of the north, so we motorsailed. I had a lot to think about as we watched the sun set on the 31st of July. Over 10,000 miles of sailing behind us now.
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Edward was at the helm as we picked up the lights for the Burnett River entrance. He woke me, knowing I would appreciate conning the boat up the fairway. We were both a bit dazzled by the array of navigational aids! At 5 minutes past midnight, we were fast along the Quarantine dock at the Bundaberg marina. It was five years to the day since <i>Southern Cross</i> had headed out across the bar at Newport, Oregon.
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The next morning, two friendly and courteous officials guided us through the formalities of immigration, customs, and biosecurity. It took nearly an hour for biosecurity to thoroughly scan every nook and cranny for signs of termites! But once through that hurdle, it was time to phone Vicki and step ashore for the first time on a new continent.
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Markhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03558061978678166380noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-776020648992678506.post-7794576100494834432014-07-27T18:46:00.000-07:002014-08-21T18:50:01.136-07:00Chesterfield ReefAfter 6 days in Port Vila, another weather window presented itself, and Ed and I prepared to continue the voyage without Ollie, who had decided to do some more travel in Vanuatu and fly home from there. After our recent unpleasant passage from Fiji, neither Ed nor I were keen about the idea of double-handing for a thousand miles, but no other options appeared.
<p>
However, this next passage turned out to be a completely different ball game. We had perfect tradewind sailing along our westward track, with very light sea conditions due to being in the lee of New Caledonia. <i>Southern Cross</i> logged a couple of 150-mile days, and before we knew it, we were approaching the "Grand Passage" between the Pacific and the Coral Sea. Strong upwellings and currents in the pass were revealed by a frenzy of seabirds feasting on vast schools of fish.
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Ed's father was sending us nightly weather forecasts from his boat anchored in the Baltic; with a favorable forecast, we planned a stop at the Chesterfield Reef, a vast uninhabited archipelago of tiny cays, administered by New Caledonia. I had tried to get official permission to stop here, but the Maritime Affairs department never replied to my emails, and the French Consul in Port Vila was no help. We decided it was worth the small risk of being fined or booted out.
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We had several waypoints (thanks to Evan and Diane on <i>Ceilydh</i>) for approaching and anchoring in the lagoon, but other than that, our Navionics chart was sorely lacking in detail. As we neared the approach waypoint for the lagoon, the wind picked up to a steady 20 knots. It was 1330, meaning we had about 4 hours to get the boat safely anchored, or else face darkness in a poorly-charted area full of reefs! Visibility was good, so I tried to "cut the corner" from the approach waypoint toward the anchorage. But when soundings steadily decreased, and large bommies started appearing, we doubled back to the north, adding another two miles to the distance we had to cover to get to the anchorage. By the time we were back in deep water inside the lagoon, the anchorage was dead to windward, with a short two-foot chop reducing our speed to about 3 knots. The clock was ticking, so we tried tacking with a small bit of jib rolled out and the engine running. Slowly we made our way to the south. I told Ed that if we weren't in sight of the anchorage in another half-hour, we would have to turn and run for the passage through the west side of the reef and back out to sea.
<p>
Shortly thereafter, we spotted a ketch to the south. At first I thought she was also motoring toward the anchorage, but when we hailed her on VHF, we learned that <i>Quintessa</i> was anchored in the middle of the lagoon, in over 30 meters of water! Thus reassured that conditions were better ahead of us, we carried on, and reached a nice sand patch in the lee of the eastern string of cays, with an hour of daylight to spare. The Rocna hooked immediately, as usual, and I went below to warm up and get some food. Ed, not one to rely on unfamiliar ground tackle, stayed on anchor watch a while longer, while I tried to convince him of my anchor's dependability.
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<p>
The next morning, the wind continued to blow a steady 20 knots and higher, ensuring that a trip to shore would be somewhat like getting wet-sanded. We stayed on the boat until mid-afternoon, when we were invited over to <i>Quintessa</i> for a beer. She turned out to be a powerful 65-foot ketch, hailing from Whangarei, NZ; her skipper Allen turned out to be a rather obsessive shell collector. He had been singlehanding among the reefs in the Coral Sea for several weeks, seeking out remote bommies where he would dive alone, at night, in shark-infested waters, in search of <i>Conus lamberti</i> and other rare (and often extremely venomous) molluscs. Talk about commitment!
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<p>
The next morning, the sky was filled with a glorious and bloody sunrise, and the wind had abated to about 15 knots.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTCS_JRsPYGLYnEf1Oxks7Ef4wZzqRqJ10OgI68b6E5df102cJmDO2R0z82m3f5_z9pM6AktGVyvL9NQJ1IcVy8sW51cp_XKgqd89UzZXtKXWBYAM4mviaVxZ_J1x0fPYVAYzkM_yEoqS1/s1600/chestersunrise.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTCS_JRsPYGLYnEf1Oxks7Ef4wZzqRqJ10OgI68b6E5df102cJmDO2R0z82m3f5_z9pM6AktGVyvL9NQJ1IcVy8sW51cp_XKgqd89UzZXtKXWBYAM4mviaVxZ_J1x0fPYVAYzkM_yEoqS1/s320/chestersunrise.jpg" /></a>
<p>
Before we knew what was happening, a pair of humpback whales came right past the boat. If we'd had our wits about us, we could have jumped right in and swam with them. After grabbing our masks and fins, we got into the dinghy and spent the next hour following them along the fringe of the lagoon. Ed caught a brief glimpse of them underwater, but they were swimming too quickly to keep up with.
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<p>
After giving up our pursuit of the whales, we dinghied ashore, trying not to disturb the nesting boobies, frigatebirds, noddies, and terns.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVTV_BxL1ohe8CdhvkBnXO7GH1l_GesCpf91Buo8oc65SAmio_thqy3XXvRB9Tq518aP_fqwvfUxsVn1N9QQOgGqsvFsGy9sB9EG-L-jWodRO7cqhg2o1W-iU5GpcmlFO9LHOaS8LtWsps/s1600/beach2.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhVTV_BxL1ohe8CdhvkBnXO7GH1l_GesCpf91Buo8oc65SAmio_thqy3XXvRB9Tq518aP_fqwvfUxsVn1N9QQOgGqsvFsGy9sB9EG-L-jWodRO7cqhg2o1W-iU5GpcmlFO9LHOaS8LtWsps/s320/beach2.jpg" /></a>
<p>
That afternoon, a third boat, <i>TryBooking</i> (named for its owner's company) anchored nearby. A group of Melbourne sailors were delivering her back home from the Vanuatu race, and they told us there was a good weather window approaching, so we made plans to head out the next morning. Glad we were able to stop here at Chesterfield. It is good to know there are still such places where wild nature can flourish relatively unmolested.
Markhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03558061978678166380noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-776020648992678506.post-20541766237298005472014-07-20T15:51:00.000-07:002014-08-21T18:50:32.153-07:00Passage to VanuatuThe date for continuing our voyage was rather hard to nail down. Vicki has been hoping to find someone to crew in her stead, having decided that she doesn't need any more blue water passages on her resume. I wasn't about to singlehand, and I was reluctant even to doublehand, so we needed to find at least two crew.
<p>
We put out a call to experienced sailors among our family and friends, but were only able to get one solid commitment, from a thirty-something Australian whom we had met in April. I was a bit hesitant, knowing that his offshore experience was limited, but the clock was ticking, so we finally phoned Ollie and told him we would leave in a week's time if he was still willing and able to fly over to Fiji. He was, so Vicki booked her own ticket to fly in the other direction and began provisioning the boat for the passage. We took another look at the standing rigging, and made a last-minute decision to replace the cap shrouds, lowers, and the starboard intermediate (having already replaced the port one a month ago).
<p>
At this point we had a stroke of good luck - just how good we were yet to learn. Vicki saw a young man with long curly hair disembarking from a newly-arrived yacht with his sea bag flung over his shoulder, thought about it a minute, and realized he might be looking for a new crew position. He had disappeared from view, so she asked everyone if they had seen him, and eventually learned that his name was Edward and that he was taking a shower. She went over toward the men's room, called to him from outside the door. He was a bit surprised to be hailed by a stranger while showering, but he eventually agreed to come by our boat after he had finished.
<p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIrdTH9KSGn3F2m2SHoKMDfLy_43u5XmmE5r8AeezIuO3ZBVmERcDC8PnKI9HDAPUIkXV1kPLnZqe2uckMY3c_vgXR_OSgG7mUQmeHF5bZG04qaxWkKFiwSgaXf2SOQzMrTGO04g3aTkE/s1600/ed.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgIrdTH9KSGn3F2m2SHoKMDfLy_43u5XmmE5r8AeezIuO3ZBVmERcDC8PnKI9HDAPUIkXV1kPLnZqe2uckMY3c_vgXR_OSgG7mUQmeHF5bZG04qaxWkKFiwSgaXf2SOQzMrTGO04g3aTkE/s320/ed.jpg" /></a>
My first impression of Ed was quite positive - he was good natured, strong, and had sailed most of his life. He had spent the past year or so learning traditional boatbuilding skills in NZ and Australia. He asked a lot of questions about the boat's safety equipment, which indicated a high degree of safety consciousness. We were a bit surprised when he agreed to join the crew after only a 20-minute chat. We told him to sleep on it, but he telephoned the next day to confirm his willingness.
<p>
After Ollie arrived, Vicki moved ashore for the last couple of days before her flight, giving me time to bond with my new crew. We sailed out to Musket Cove, visited Cloud Nine, and then returned to Vuda to check out with Customs. The weather dictated another few days' wait, so we caught a truck ride up to Abaca village and spent a couple of days climbing Mt. Batilamu and exploring the nearby jungle.
<p>
Finally, our weather window arrived and we sailed out Malolo Pass, getting a close look at the "Restaurants" surf break.
<p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinUUjux5iSfkzsA4E3bIyyi2hT2sOh7vr8rHpkFVrDzch5kb8UvA_Cf1WcsocHPkobtCCeH20-kP7jWCHoncZ17ax5tRspHq3WsFch8HiE7G24CpmimM6bKToeJqDzWrquYC7yivypnnU/s1600/restaurants.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinUUjux5iSfkzsA4E3bIyyi2hT2sOh7vr8rHpkFVrDzch5kb8UvA_Cf1WcsocHPkobtCCeH20-kP7jWCHoncZ17ax5tRspHq3WsFch8HiE7G24CpmimM6bKToeJqDzWrquYC7yivypnnU/s320/restaurants.jpg" /></a>
Despite a forecast for quartering SE winds and seas, we found ourselves hard on the wind the first day and night at sea. Ollie learned that the Stugeron he had brought was ineffective at warding off seasickness. By the second night at sea, he was better, but only because we were motoring in a relatively flat sea.
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The wind picked up again on Day 3, still on the nose from our intended landfall at Anatom Island. Finally I made the decision to crack off for Port Vila, not only to ease Ollie's discomfort, but to minimize the chance of breakage. I didn't want to deduct the cost of any further repairs from the sale price of the boat.
<p>
Once again, the winds died during the night, and we found ourselves motoring. So the next morning, we again altered course, hoping to reach Anatom or at least Tanna. But the winds and seas cruelly increased, and we altered couse for the last time, still a day away from landfall at Port Vila. All three of us were mightily disappointed to miss out on the charms of two lesser-visited islands and to have to make landfall at a major port. The only consolation was that for one of the last hours of our downwind sleigh ride, we were accompanied by a minke whale, happily surfing alongside us and at times passing a bit too close under our bow. We had terrific views of the whole body of the whale inside the wave, but it was too wet and rough to capture the experience with our cameras.
<p><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir3cOOj9bQXYbznpyV9_UdxBjpmBeV6ofkarxqyyyPGlAotraI8a-wLmS3eG5kIdJrqcF8kW8JcWFrkbvU2hEubhDWH0SNijD1m3q_5Thr9mQX35ye0t-Xbjc4CCAOauDzBVzUvLt8DjY/s1600/portvilaarrival.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEir3cOOj9bQXYbznpyV9_UdxBjpmBeV6ofkarxqyyyPGlAotraI8a-wLmS3eG5kIdJrqcF8kW8JcWFrkbvU2hEubhDWH0SNijD1m3q_5Thr9mQX35ye0t-Xbjc4CCAOauDzBVzUvLt8DjY/s320/portvilaarrival.jpg" /></a>
Port Vila was a snug harbor, and the Customs and Quarantine crew was friendly and efficient. We were soon sipping Tuskers (local beer) at the Yachting World bar, and deciding how to spend our time in port. All three of us took a van ride over to yet another "Blue Lagoon" on the opposite side of the island.
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Ed and Ollie continued their adventure by hitching the rest of the way around the island, while I went back to Port Vila to stew over weather GRIB files and enjoy the the fresh fruits and veggies from the local market. I continued to experience strong disappointment over having missed out on Anatom and Tanna, and didn't really allow myself to enjoy Efate.
Markhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03558061978678166380noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-776020648992678506.post-72480305167046882762014-06-28T14:06:00.000-07:002014-06-28T14:06:25.056-07:00A longer cruise in the YasawasWe spent another couple of weeks in Vuda Point, repairing new problems that had emerged during our last cruise in the Mamanucas: the anchor windlass gearbox had to be rebuilt,
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and an intermediate stay and a faulty water temperature sender had to be replaced. We also replaced the engine coolant, and had a bracket and tiller extension fabricated so that we can mount a (new) Tiller Pilot to the windvane, backing up our geriatric wheel pilot. Being in Vuda we had plenty of time to socialize with our friend Ame and his family.
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Vicki also enjoyed a visit to a nearby village school.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY7k43PHp41A-VxEBUBFI8jf7VKaEvg6FZbj5EElx_wJrtXLMlaM9PpI7VoFFPetCBsfPSoyeXpPWeX3TnG_YLfBKVswP9mIbbPWlNoj4BuyiTkzdlmr6eWIrU2vb1kUYeudCoH-ZZ_bID/s1600/vickischool.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjY7k43PHp41A-VxEBUBFI8jf7VKaEvg6FZbj5EElx_wJrtXLMlaM9PpI7VoFFPetCBsfPSoyeXpPWeX3TnG_YLfBKVswP9mIbbPWlNoj4BuyiTkzdlmr6eWIrU2vb1kUYeudCoH-ZZ_bID/s320/vickischool.jpg" /></a>
After all the work was completed, we loaded up with fuel, water, and provisions, and sailed back out to Musket Cove, our second visit to this beautiful anchorage.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhRFOI6Ym4XC_hYZ_BH4Q40XqmcMG9CNj_A2ua_UWjgIsgXSLBnUS-Fb7Ums4aTZXJSPkVlLJKfOSUOI-UuM_9gfHFgvMXl5Hvr-VrW56kUtV_a6z94Jh7JLVo6dvSs45i9Hg9-fC7u6bQ/s1600/musketvicki.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhRFOI6Ym4XC_hYZ_BH4Q40XqmcMG9CNj_A2ua_UWjgIsgXSLBnUS-Fb7Ums4aTZXJSPkVlLJKfOSUOI-UuM_9gfHFgvMXl5Hvr-VrW56kUtV_a6z94Jh7JLVo6dvSs45i9Hg9-fC7u6bQ/s320/musketvicki.jpg" /></a>
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This time we had better weather for exploring our surroundings. We did day trips out to Namotu and Tavarua, which are both small atolls owned by foreigners with pricey resorts, who don't allow yachties to land. This seemed rude after the hospitality we have experienced elsewhere in Fiji. But the snorkeling nearby was good, so we made the best of it.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnw73swupOj1Vvck0MJocTzVQVYjjhtG5vMQTjmh-8NSpdjrBBL9TsV8LxW9gicv9SHKSuTHmfJrWTeR2sS7tBfAzsXDqntmj3huKbc0pHj-2jIaI0pyUIBJKjn_Rg5NVRWCQGTWokRFUo/s1600/namotu.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhnw73swupOj1Vvck0MJocTzVQVYjjhtG5vMQTjmh-8NSpdjrBBL9TsV8LxW9gicv9SHKSuTHmfJrWTeR2sS7tBfAzsXDqntmj3huKbc0pHj-2jIaI0pyUIBJKjn_Rg5NVRWCQGTWokRFUo/s320/namotu.jpg" /></a>
Another day we dinghied out to "Cloud 9" a floating bar anchored near the barrier reef. It was a perfect day for it.
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After a few days in Musket, we sailed north to Navadra, another anchorage we had visited once before. A northwest swell made it less comfortable than before and perhaps explained why we had the island to ourselves!
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From here, it was new territory as we sailed north along the west side of rugged Waya Island. The scenery here reminded us of the Marquesas in French Polynesia.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqJDgqRQ4Khst7IbLBRmPLXQCtmybuE_KaIjxRgcuwivy6zWIoWPmqMknMYEI-YqSA61bXeHfsPIAQsrdgED5yq3jYV6Q9uR2p2h-97q1ot0yhOuKxLB7vupOG2M7Zx1ARTFwNH-6ad1Uk/s1600/waya.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjqJDgqRQ4Khst7IbLBRmPLXQCtmybuE_KaIjxRgcuwivy6zWIoWPmqMknMYEI-YqSA61bXeHfsPIAQsrdgED5yq3jYV6Q9uR2p2h-97q1ot0yhOuKxLB7vupOG2M7Zx1ARTFwNH-6ad1Uk/s320/waya.jpg" /></a>
We anchored just off the Octopus Resort in Likuliku Bay. A walk along the beach brought us to the disconcerting sight of a sailboat keel. This was the last remnant of the beautiful <i>Moonduster</i>, <a href="https://www.latitude38.com/lectronic/lectronicday.lasso?date=2009-12-16">lost here in a surprise hurricane in 2009</a>. A poignant reminder of how things can go bad in a hurry.
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After another rolly night at anchor, we were ready to keep moving, even though the usual SE trades had died out and we had to motor. Five hours brought us to what is reputedly the best anchorage in the Yasawas, the Blue Lagoon.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqq9OCAK3_10clSmT_E1y8DlFf1H4AUFfY-siRZBM0hnTxno_u39Jyxs2pdIqN75nH6ipIZQYUdctfn91qzVG1RKu6d8oKtj3ADkr0BVkbKsIzjJCtPJQo3YGmy4Bky9z56224LSe8uf6H/s1600/blulagoonfromhill.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqq9OCAK3_10clSmT_E1y8DlFf1H4AUFfY-siRZBM0hnTxno_u39Jyxs2pdIqN75nH6ipIZQYUdctfn91qzVG1RKu6d8oKtj3ADkr0BVkbKsIzjJCtPJQo3YGmy4Bky9z56224LSe8uf6H/s320/blulagoonfromhill.jpg" /></a>
We spent 6 days here and thoroughly enjoyed it. Of course, its good qualities make it popular - we always had between 6 and 12 other yachts around us. We enjoyed meals and beers at the Nanuya Island Resort,
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUkXGUy24ck-JFKBxulOd1VJI6dHSCzhYlpNvEPBM6hKJJmgSoOXkwPjzojGuLxk79bw3DFGMWhAcniHaZGDa5oQjocHF5T_ErGIYMr69wyFo43QWgETmbOLQji9NenZj_I8-S5QLlgaLX/s1600/nanuyaresort.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjUkXGUy24ck-JFKBxulOd1VJI6dHSCzhYlpNvEPBM6hKJJmgSoOXkwPjzojGuLxk79bw3DFGMWhAcniHaZGDa5oQjocHF5T_ErGIYMr69wyFo43QWgETmbOLQji9NenZj_I8-S5QLlgaLX/s320/nanuyaresort.jpg" /></a>
hiking the island's many paths (here accompanied by Didier and Marie Luce from the Swiss Amel ketch, <i>Hana Iti</i>),
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-T9YA-JOSP8a2p9Ip_vTYRGRufbYh0btsYR_A8NN4x6nsH-0PEiYgY2mKpDFTL8oyewhKGr_JE2lmA3q7lq76efmdYQuOKBN5wm__2FquPEBrstu179A_nTdv6bDNByuticr7SH2_M6u7/s1600/pathhanaiti.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj-T9YA-JOSP8a2p9Ip_vTYRGRufbYh0btsYR_A8NN4x6nsH-0PEiYgY2mKpDFTL8oyewhKGr_JE2lmA3q7lq76efmdYQuOKBN5wm__2FquPEBrstu179A_nTdv6bDNByuticr7SH2_M6u7/s320/pathhanaiti.jpg" /></a>
visiting Lo's teahouse in the village on the other side of the island,
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strolling one of the longest beaches we have seen in Fiji, and the otherwise rocky coastline,
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and snorkeling or diving nearly every day, including a touristy but still exciting commercial dive in which enormous bull sharks were fed only a few feet from where we cowered behind a useless rope guardrail.
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We enjoyed the perfect protection of this anchorage for nearly a week while the winds howled mightily outside. We decided that once the winds had moderated, we would start heading south again, rather than explore further north. We were a bit sad to miss the famous caves at Sawa i Lau, but we had already experienced far less commercialized caves in the Lau Islands. Our first stop was on the west side of Naviti Island, in front of the Korovou Eco Resort, owned by a cousin of our friend Ame.
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Getting ashore past the barrier reef at low tide can be a bit of a challenge!
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiGxU9fCxY_uP9qTwfDjSk3c2tnOG-lIZf_agFlda0kbIJ68yyj2rCJgEIfnOBVw7lFygOTS-TA03bEkYKt4ckU49aPuCzIXEPow4Whl455ovk5ar7GGp8N_nVIw7Tqw7gtZogvznBwnfv/s1600/photo2.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgiGxU9fCxY_uP9qTwfDjSk3c2tnOG-lIZf_agFlda0kbIJ68yyj2rCJgEIfnOBVw7lFygOTS-TA03bEkYKt4ckU49aPuCzIXEPow4Whl455ovk5ar7GGp8N_nVIw7Tqw7gtZogvznBwnfv/s320/photo2.jpg" /></a>
We elected to leave the boat in this well protected anchorage and join the resort's guests for a snorkel with the nearby manta rays.
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From Naviti we thought we were going to have a beautiful sail back to Vuda. The winds had been blowing strongly out of the east, but as soon as we had sailed less than a mile away from Naviti, the winds died gradually, and we ended up motoring most of the way to Saweni. After a peaceful night here, we elected to head back into Vuda to make preparations for the next stage of the voyage, to Vanuatu and on to Australia.Markhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03558061978678166380noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-776020648992678506.post-62612903048618900872014-05-27T13:19:00.001-07:002014-05-27T13:19:28.047-07:00A short cruise in the MamanucasAfter getting several boat issues squared away, we decided to take a short cruise through the neighboring island group, the Mamanuca Islands. Sieg and Barb on <i>Sorceress</i>, along with their friend Chuck, joined us on the first leg. And I need to mention here that Chuck very kindly brought us some boat parts from the US, which really helped us to get out of the marina. The Mamanucas are one of the most intensely touristic parts of Fiji, but it is still relatively pristine compared to most parts of the world. The resorts are small and low-key. Our first stop was Musket Cove, on Malolo Lailai Island. The anchorage is protected but the water is 20m deep, so we picked up a mooring instead of dropping the hook.
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For about US$10, we became members of the Musket Cove Yacht Club, which entitled us to shoreside privileges such as showers and use of the resort's salt water pool. We enjoyed walking around the island every morning, a peaceful change from our morning walk at Vuda. Along with a number of fine homes, we came across this pretty chapel on the hill overlooking the resort.
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After riding out a 40-knot windstorm, it was time to move on. <i>Sorceress</i> headed east, bound for Savusavu. It might be the last time we see her.
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But <i>Inca</i> soon arrived, with Aaron and his two new crewmates, Ali and James. We made a plan to cruise north in company with them. Our first destination was only a short ways away, the small lagoon at Mana Island, which was well protected from swell, but wide open to the wind, still blowing pretty strong after the previous low pressure system of a few days ago. Vicki did a great job conning us through the winding passage through the reef.
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We dinghied ashore and explored the resort. Vicki even won some money playing bingo at poolside.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTG6GfG-hj9SIESiO_gfLCVrZ2F_fvt_EilPFF0CQL0s97FIeBOMSj-qrPC1qkKZg9Xm7ZOK6msy-9yfxf3X5zr1n00bjHN_cua981ex6jbtIKRzXgvnt_pwNC4c4kQ-jUwszxzD7HykgN/s1600/northbeach.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTG6GfG-hj9SIESiO_gfLCVrZ2F_fvt_EilPFF0CQL0s97FIeBOMSj-qrPC1qkKZg9Xm7ZOK6msy-9yfxf3X5zr1n00bjHN_cua981ex6jbtIKRzXgvnt_pwNC4c4kQ-jUwszxzD7HykgN/s320/northbeach.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfBqT7BdVvlFs_iy7OiEqLbyFYgITCDUMdhgwWAjl6rS6yyv4BflUyh9FsQaxcouU0m7TRLIhU_ua5_sNkjSNGEJ0up5e3A09XlDNmZsYQfjbzJOHei5E3mFrSMxNQEc8Fu51QLB3DFoWs/s1600/treedeck.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjfBqT7BdVvlFs_iy7OiEqLbyFYgITCDUMdhgwWAjl6rS6yyv4BflUyh9FsQaxcouU0m7TRLIhU_ua5_sNkjSNGEJ0up5e3A09XlDNmZsYQfjbzJOHei5E3mFrSMxNQEc8Fu51QLB3DFoWs/s320/treedeck.jpg" /></a>
The next day we had a nice sail north to Navadra. There was enough wind that we only needed our genoa. We managed to stay ahead of Inca until she raised her mizzen. She is a fine looking 58-footer, designed by Gary Mull.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwPAjpMf1mOJ4tAd-C526xmdGYkMb5BC1Yt1PMETwEYUQ-CaLRe2CKBc7aENbZEPNK6d4AzAvuYK1y48ekkmLXE8kWI8sL-trWAp7-W8wyA8CKuISoOkMs8aVfdsdoOCWxP6Y-672WrakH/s1600/incaundersail.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhwPAjpMf1mOJ4tAd-C526xmdGYkMb5BC1Yt1PMETwEYUQ-CaLRe2CKBc7aENbZEPNK6d4AzAvuYK1y48ekkmLXE8kWI8sL-trWAp7-W8wyA8CKuISoOkMs8aVfdsdoOCWxP6Y-672WrakH/s320/incaundersail.jpg" /></a>
Navadra is my new favorite anchorage in Fiji. Of course we were lucky in that prevailing weather made for a calm anchorage. We've talked to others who have not had very good conditions there. But it is one of the few uninhabited islands we've seen with decent protection, beautiful beaches, and excellent snorkeling.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDFvMoMRiYvtN3qkbhEiJQuYW248EintHKzvsiUQs8vGRtuVG8IGC6xVvys2IAB5Z6YnPEc1I5evlAYGrcnF9yArlWFdozueCd4iRoSgUIXDAVTmMGnRFiGewrpj56neaZbwfDNbVUbStI/s1600/mnvnavadra.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhDFvMoMRiYvtN3qkbhEiJQuYW248EintHKzvsiUQs8vGRtuVG8IGC6xVvys2IAB5Z6YnPEc1I5evlAYGrcnF9yArlWFdozueCd4iRoSgUIXDAVTmMGnRFiGewrpj56neaZbwfDNbVUbStI/s320/mnvnavadra.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtH4emTLkYEcghoOsVmvcTjyL2xCvaWkXGXbV-6UggnLjW3ACoQjhV76RxaY_zFPyg_X__LrmraHNgb1hLpgagtGyskTnMB-lbyaI_WcO6xesn6-oPtdE5ekgMWWEbi2z1y_FmTa3ltCuY/s1600/navadrasunset.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhtH4emTLkYEcghoOsVmvcTjyL2xCvaWkXGXbV-6UggnLjW3ACoQjhV76RxaY_zFPyg_X__LrmraHNgb1hLpgagtGyskTnMB-lbyaI_WcO6xesn6-oPtdE5ekgMWWEbi2z1y_FmTa3ltCuY/s320/navadrasunset.jpg" /></a>
In hindsight, we should have stayed longer at Navadra. But we elected to head north to the southernmost island in the Yasawas, Waya. While it has a beautiful skyline, somewhat reminiscent of the Marquesas, we found the anchorage to be rolly in these conditions.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyFFG_m0vdFwU4hiZGrWY3C-yJNZXk5j7GUtsNxtesjmtaOPrWcbSK4ye3ZkojYYGufn2Y62YnZof-gjs8Wz_4g-d8VvedX9tZWti45OUBhz85o2MYy6Yflb6p3gQLQdy69PYi_Igkk3V9/s1600/waya.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhyFFG_m0vdFwU4hiZGrWY3C-yJNZXk5j7GUtsNxtesjmtaOPrWcbSK4ye3ZkojYYGufn2Y62YnZof-gjs8Wz_4g-d8VvedX9tZWti45OUBhz85o2MYy6Yflb6p3gQLQdy69PYi_Igkk3V9/s320/waya.jpg" /></a>
A stern hook gave us a good night's sleep, but we were more than ready to leave the next day at first light. Unfortunately, the winds were still blowing hard from the south, so we had a pretty tough beat for the first few hours, until we came into the lee of Viti Levu, at which point the winds died and we motored the rest of the way to Saweni Bay. This is a peaceful anchorage under most conditions, and we stayed 2 nights here. While the cows enjoyed walking the beach, we enjoyed walking the nearby country roads.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCWgseucq0mwLcc1mArjb3U-nnzrev-c_2tw_fJw7aNEAYpPtjAxQ9dwnf8xSOMlYIK8ket8Xn9PKka-w1UOFbW62hPunXzpBAMEnJ73NhstwoVEQU1wyjVx007ieuPf5SJPG6s7KS4JJD/s1600/sawenicows.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiCWgseucq0mwLcc1mArjb3U-nnzrev-c_2tw_fJw7aNEAYpPtjAxQ9dwnf8xSOMlYIK8ket8Xn9PKka-w1UOFbW62hPunXzpBAMEnJ73NhstwoVEQU1wyjVx007ieuPf5SJPG6s7KS4JJD/s320/sawenicows.jpg" /></a>
The second day, we were happy to see David, Angelina, and Natalie steam into the anchorage on <i>La Fiesta</i>. We had met them briefly in Mexico, and again in Moorea in 2012. David kindly helped me sort out a few of the boat issues that were still unresolved. He tore down the autopilot gearbox, cleaned and greased the gears, and got it all back together and working. Nevertheless, we have a few more boat issues to address, so now we have returned to Vuda Point, where we will get the boat ready for passage to New Cal and on to Australia. We may still fit in a few more short cruises before then, as we will probably not leave Fiji for at least a month.
Markhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03558061978678166380noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-776020648992678506.post-15679558668396678272014-05-18T14:32:00.000-07:002014-05-18T14:32:32.856-07:00Southern Cross is for saleWe've always known this day would come; we've just never known when. But we have decided it is time to move on to another chapter. <i>Southern Cross</i> is on the market, listed with a Sydney broker: <a href="http://au.yachtworld.com/boats/1988/Ericson-38-2721327/Fiji#.U3kiDmthiSN">http://au.yachtworld.com/boats/1988/Ericson-38-2721327/Fiji#.U3kiDmthiSN</a>
<p>
A variety of factors brought about this decision, but it basically comes down to recognizing that our combined physical abilities no longer provide us with a comfortable margin for dealing with the various challenges of cruising. Also, our financial picture will be changing in the next year or two, and we don't want to wait until the point at which boat ownership and maintenance become problematic. Finally, we have accomplished the basic goals which brought us this far: bluewater passages, remote islands, and exotic cultures. While we could continue to savor new destinations, there are other experiences in life that we don't want to postpone much longer.
<p>
Southern Cross has been our home and our magic carpet for 12 years, and is part of our family. We've discussed various ways of bringing her home to the Pacific Northwest, but none seem feasible given our physical and financial limitations. So we are hoping she finds a new home in this part of the world.
<p>
The current plan is to prepare for a voyage to New Caledonia, and on to Australia, leaving Fiji about the middle of June, when spring quarter is over and my teaching responsibilities will no longer require daily Internet contact.Markhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03558061978678166380noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-776020648992678506.post-23111992708634310472014-05-15T15:24:00.000-07:002014-05-15T15:24:10.033-07:00Underway at lastSieg's friend Chuck flew in with the last of our new parts a couple of days ago. Now, with new batteries, wiring harness, solenoid, safety switch, and fuel water separator installed (and pocketbooks correspondingly emptied), we are finally ready for action.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMM4vOPa1rPmGLC7TA34AEnbQuClWxRoc-B8ruuehyphenhyphenGEVjVmj0Db3-Cw8YhDc9Tpf9ta35xTxyYFlnarlxzNbQPAHl-JqdtAwyjvQpGKrZ5XLFue_uoEaOfBgFt7T3HFjaRT0ygA2KZq13/s1600/capnvicki.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiMM4vOPa1rPmGLC7TA34AEnbQuClWxRoc-B8ruuehyphenhyphenGEVjVmj0Db3-Cw8YhDc9Tpf9ta35xTxyYFlnarlxzNbQPAHl-JqdtAwyjvQpGKrZ5XLFue_uoEaOfBgFt7T3HFjaRT0ygA2KZq13/s320/capnvicki.jpg" /></a>
Despite no wind and a forecast for rain showers, we "braved" the 15nm passage to Malolo Lailai island. The reef-strewn waters give you a clear idea of why Moorings gave up on bareboat chartering here.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWcousmeYSEzQt4AExhqz8RHtPjvtNEPSYl_xY_gkCboMgTqhC9yv8u5rOdVLYejskvWec-ahxFh5CxjBK1vgEN_MEUw3JWcXrpX1vlLgGCO8YYQwe4gTEEtoqHGrhHWdSTuGOonsvY8bd/s1600/reefstrewn.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjWcousmeYSEzQt4AExhqz8RHtPjvtNEPSYl_xY_gkCboMgTqhC9yv8u5rOdVLYejskvWec-ahxFh5CxjBK1vgEN_MEUw3JWcXrpX1vlLgGCO8YYQwe4gTEEtoqHGrhHWdSTuGOonsvY8bd/s320/reefstrewn.jpg" /></a>
We picked up a mooring in front of the <a href="http://www.musketcovefiji.com/">Musket Cove</a> resort, rather than anchoring in 60+ feet of water. This is low season, and there are less than a dozen yachts here, including friends on <i>Inca</i> and <i>Sorceress</i>. Most of the fleet has not yet arrived from NZ or the east. In late August, boats will start massing here for the Sailing Rally to Port Vila, Vanuatu.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKl1qmyWTUlkDJacVSWj8Hdm9hW1Lrn-r688kvM9R_eCDCuqDRA_YZ4DeSs6BtqQUCYhUsWCzTsRYUHzA6L4h3gAm_FCkR4CgxwNGHY5niPqgQhqxfhOJ-lP1BggxB-hfNfeJ8dGiws3Z-/s1600/musketcove.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhKl1qmyWTUlkDJacVSWj8Hdm9hW1Lrn-r688kvM9R_eCDCuqDRA_YZ4DeSs6BtqQUCYhUsWCzTsRYUHzA6L4h3gAm_FCkR4CgxwNGHY5niPqgQhqxfhOJ-lP1BggxB-hfNfeJ8dGiws3Z-/s320/musketcove.jpg" /></a>
We're happy to have it to ourselves for now. Its quiet ashore, and easy to find a table at Dick's restaurant, a seat at the bar, or a lounge chair by the pool. The first night here, there was traditional Fijian dancing in front of the restaurant. Not nearly as sensual as in French Polynesia, but still fun, and a good reminder that in spite of the touristic trappings, we are a long way from home.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLbSIji9psLXEsN3vlPjV5FI9EWGZG-XjYz-z1gq1QFi235z0wJQ0Qr9lMhfu0tdK3X54sJxVrVncZhaPTvnfv74wcKqEkIWJy2fvkgcps2rlCr_Q1hnJmPO9Zr4AChbcxF9WZ_9jT4WYO/s1600/4dancers.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgLbSIji9psLXEsN3vlPjV5FI9EWGZG-XjYz-z1gq1QFi235z0wJQ0Qr9lMhfu0tdK3X54sJxVrVncZhaPTvnfv74wcKqEkIWJy2fvkgcps2rlCr_Q1hnJmPO9Zr4AChbcxF9WZ_9jT4WYO/s320/4dancers.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgswObGapynwc0iBGGqZUzhI6Fn258gTNIVTGt7DjYfC6bVD5TP9Ew9fryUBEbrZTBqDDFjhOU67-ZUBpaOZvsDbMsn-iKHvKVo3IBoQu-bgD0vvCcWN8Zcwlyl-VNmkNTpbgKfeTtnAUko/s1600/mensitting.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgswObGapynwc0iBGGqZUzhI6Fn258gTNIVTGt7DjYfC6bVD5TP9Ew9fryUBEbrZTBqDDFjhOU67-ZUBpaOZvsDbMsn-iKHvKVo3IBoQu-bgD0vvCcWN8Zcwlyl-VNmkNTpbgKfeTtnAUko/s320/mensitting.jpg" /></a>
As is our custom, we were up before dawn for a vigorous walk before the sun heats things up. We walked through the resorts and up to the hilltop for a view over the bay. Along the way we passed this picturesque chapel.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqufkhxnkUASc00H1VNHBqfLz7MFrvgIVm49pUcvadMURsOd20VlES2ZzLaNvgBUg46gSG5LYLMyTgkgyjrOxgtHvlgS94cL1lNGHkuMk6hEwPnI_DmewOUA9444vvDB7AHPDQhpurLsfz/s1600/chapel.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiqufkhxnkUASc00H1VNHBqfLz7MFrvgIVm49pUcvadMURsOd20VlES2ZzLaNvgBUg46gSG5LYLMyTgkgyjrOxgtHvlgS94cL1lNGHkuMk6hEwPnI_DmewOUA9444vvDB7AHPDQhpurLsfz/s320/chapel.jpg" /></a>
We hope to relax here for a week or so. Its one of the few spots in the Mamanucas and Yasawas with reliable 3G internet, and I need to stay connected until the end of spring term in a few more weeks.Markhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03558061978678166380noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-776020648992678506.post-90253892579433412892014-05-13T00:51:00.000-07:002014-05-13T00:51:13.847-07:00Still in the marinaThanks to the help of some local electricians, we got the damage from the electrical fire sorted out. There was apparently a short in the preheat solenoid that burned the wire between it and the starter. We were grateful this happened while we were so close to help. The entire wiring harness had to be rebuilt because of melted insulation on neighboring wires.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYjDW6xiMIcq8NTe619JrhVq95U6etUmfWNk1SPfI7Sk7kpkiV_CRt9C-rNhQ4OCNERQeV726YlsA4-qBBsBX-Ixu3upuvIMC615FJ7dYUE6ONbyrWEW-AruWmP5n2y6ZT-4ws8pMoqFS0/s1600/burn.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjYjDW6xiMIcq8NTe619JrhVq95U6etUmfWNk1SPfI7Sk7kpkiV_CRt9C-rNhQ4OCNERQeV726YlsA4-qBBsBX-Ixu3upuvIMC615FJ7dYUE6ONbyrWEW-AruWmP5n2y6ZT-4ws8pMoqFS0/s320/burn.jpg" /></a>
We went to the office in Lautoka to settle the bill. They gave us a grand tour of the premises, including this impressive heap of alternators.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik1K4MDJRMqvsJA3ICHB_J775hzSu8bJD7HuZy-5t1xZBbhBT6DYFX352-GdsgGI0PQwpky65JP8zot3fydx36R4IVJ-t2r8r7mNeXj4Vqt6Jscz6INDLDNQogOYHN9827gF4DP1C7uuRE/s1600/alternators.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEik1K4MDJRMqvsJA3ICHB_J775hzSu8bJD7HuZy-5t1xZBbhBT6DYFX352-GdsgGI0PQwpky65JP8zot3fydx36R4IVJ-t2r8r7mNeXj4Vqt6Jscz6INDLDNQogOYHN9827gF4DP1C7uuRE/s320/alternators.jpg" /></a>
I've also finished getting the boat commissioned for the season and repaired a number of small issues. I replaced our house batteries with two new 150Ah AGMs. We are still having a problem that I thought I had sorted out last season - a small air leak in our fuel/water separator. One of Sieg and Barb's friends is flying in with a replacement bowl, so we are biding our time here in the marina. We go for a 2 mile walk before dawn, have breakfast, do schoolwork and boat chores, cool off in the afternoon with a swim at the pool next door, watch the sunset (often accompanied by a green flash), eat dinner, watch a movie. For the last couple of evenings, the Russian superyacht "A" has been anchored a few miles away.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio3C1yloFuN-Za3QU_98sNJXW6N4MMVokqUda-i5xEeshWyi3sjiUBgGRalbSRjCT8cS-Sw_daSrnqjiuRgJb3yHoATCgWWMvmOLyk6-oT2ZnZqAn7JTRmaLzox1yOBpSXhj1Q7umoUOMm/s1600/sunset3.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEio3C1yloFuN-Za3QU_98sNJXW6N4MMVokqUda-i5xEeshWyi3sjiUBgGRalbSRjCT8cS-Sw_daSrnqjiuRgJb3yHoATCgWWMvmOLyk6-oT2ZnZqAn7JTRmaLzox1yOBpSXhj1Q7umoUOMm/s320/sunset3.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLtBwTzQ2PiwCIpc2NUNBDIwmOHJxgzKnIGb8Gkh_SKKclzgung5S_fKJ2jN9wU1AlP4MoB0Hw9MH_9SqLs5jwckoa2wSetAgk0gpBzye9XGU0PrMEhdjEkgbsZxjn45R3CKyHkkWJSKlZ/s1600/A.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhLtBwTzQ2PiwCIpc2NUNBDIwmOHJxgzKnIGb8Gkh_SKKclzgung5S_fKJ2jN9wU1AlP4MoB0Hw9MH_9SqLs5jwckoa2wSetAgk0gpBzye9XGU0PrMEhdjEkgbsZxjn45R3CKyHkkWJSKlZ/s320/A.jpg" /></a>
Vicki went to a church service in the nearby village.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMz9gkhmt_eBFzpjfktju0W8xfBkF_BuKa1cAQdQlNmnWSwBIkCWmv1OLhVQaiu6Xb4tlrtFm-QS736koI725gozBZwOnma9GibeuG50HL58BT-iWq7ZC1lcSJyjFmK9LLu_TSmdaGZbfv/s1600/church.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgMz9gkhmt_eBFzpjfktju0W8xfBkF_BuKa1cAQdQlNmnWSwBIkCWmv1OLhVQaiu6Xb4tlrtFm-QS736koI725gozBZwOnma9GibeuG50HL58BT-iWq7ZC1lcSJyjFmK9LLu_TSmdaGZbfv/s320/church.jpg" /></a>
There's no rush to leave, as I have to teach another 4 weeks before we can get too far from the Internet. Other than shopping, the only highlight of this past week was being invited to dinner at the home of our boat caretaker, Mr. Bharos.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizEubDyuTYDp6L84JyhpoSLLSqtMBqJKrl8ALhwbPLlbDbHcMLbbkZhJ7Eo0dsHeCNUehgj7NZTPXznUNGlnwNqKlOE2caApmT8QM8oy0bu8UTO1dYSArlViM-3M9mhc8VBWo1rUHDtbLf/s1600/makingrotis.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEizEubDyuTYDp6L84JyhpoSLLSqtMBqJKrl8ALhwbPLlbDbHcMLbbkZhJ7Eo0dsHeCNUehgj7NZTPXznUNGlnwNqKlOE2caApmT8QM8oy0bu8UTO1dYSArlViM-3M9mhc8VBWo1rUHDtbLf/s320/makingrotis.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyQvERC30uRl2A9WFpu6SzA9Z5ew5YDKH_P0WSdV3mjsZ4XqUy5zJGB5XzvwZC5orpesWOC4MhE03oUkwaM4gbly7JbapQ61VPjdnGfnkYEX79SwTdcOoq3SJJjsEGUWNCI5Pj3gSiVrSE/s1600/dinner.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgyQvERC30uRl2A9WFpu6SzA9Z5ew5YDKH_P0WSdV3mjsZ4XqUy5zJGB5XzvwZC5orpesWOC4MhE03oUkwaM4gbly7JbapQ61VPjdnGfnkYEX79SwTdcOoq3SJJjsEGUWNCI5Pj3gSiVrSE/s320/dinner.jpg" /></a>
His son is a yaqona (kava) dealer at the local market. This is one of the most impressive bundles of yaqona I've ever seen.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2QwGinD0eeisyqzbB9Xz6w7Neng1x1_hXqr7KL668ZCn9gZNqd2qwvsHLu_SGV2bwXsgZrnqy-VtdxwLJMM11xBPb6eKo2GXXT0f4woXCeE9vCa2HHvVnXH8ecRzU1kmU4ZBxusSscsZ-/s1600/yaqona.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2QwGinD0eeisyqzbB9Xz6w7Neng1x1_hXqr7KL668ZCn9gZNqd2qwvsHLu_SGV2bwXsgZrnqy-VtdxwLJMM11xBPb6eKo2GXXT0f4woXCeE9vCa2HHvVnXH8ecRzU1kmU4ZBxusSscsZ-/s320/yaqona.jpg" /></a>
Once we get the new part installed, we hope to sail out to nearby Musket Cove, and perhaps on to the Yasawas. Once spring term classes are finished, we'll head back to Savusavu and the eastern side of Fiji, which is less touristy and thus more interesting to us.Markhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03558061978678166380noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-776020648992678506.post-50425300141640459242014-05-04T20:50:00.001-07:002014-05-04T20:50:46.069-07:00Afloat and... afire?After several days of hard work, with help from local contractors, we were ready to be launched today. All seemed to
be in readiness - we had run the engine for a minute or two yesterday to make sure it would start. But once in the water today, nothing happened when I turned the key. Going below, I saw smoke coming from the engine housing, so I switched off the batteries and grabbed the extinguisher. There were a few small flames near the starter, and near the fuel pump at the top rear of the engine. Once they had been extinguished, I could see some fried insulation. Seems like a classic short circuit.
Tonight is our first night sleeping aboard. Hope we can get rid of the smell of burning insulation before bedtime, and hope we can figure out what went wrong...Markhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03558061978678166380noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-776020648992678506.post-42792655497200496612014-05-01T01:14:00.001-07:002014-05-01T01:17:11.045-07:00Ready to start a new season in FijiWe flew in from Brisbane this morning, after a sleepless night. Sieg from <i>Sorceress</i> kindly picked us up at the Nadi airport. The boat looked pretty good considering she has been sitting in the tropical sun for the past 8 months. No bugs, very little mold ("Bounce" sheets tucked in among fabric works wonders at preventing mold). Unfortunately, our house batteries were nearly dry, as the caretaker had ignored our request to top up the water at 4-month intervals.
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It is nice to be in Vuda Point again, which feels like a real crossroads for cruisers. We are running into boats we have previously seen in Puget Sound, California, Mexico, and French Polynesia. We're also meeting some interesting cruisers, like the super-adventurous crew of <a href="http://wizardseye.tv/"><i>Wizard's Eye</i></a>, and the environmentally conscious crew of <a href="http://berkshiresweetgold.com/Research_Vessel_Llyr.html"><i>Research Vessel Llyr</i></a>, on their way to help villages in Vanuatu with sustainable development projects.
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It will take us a week or so of work to get the boat back in the water. One reward after a hard day of work is happy hour at the "Boatshed", watching another beautiful Fijian sunset with friends.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh20113cM0nL9aUfABft1WUiT71V2CxgA-OycXIUlz37tWOWgpfBAOk4nY43c_Qtg7gCu9DFvfrF4-jBleJIwg62RSuszQbiT-hNZBrmLoQhYSl7CxyUYQTigvM0GBknJ-CIT8wvAKh-RNS/s1600/siegbeer.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh20113cM0nL9aUfABft1WUiT71V2CxgA-OycXIUlz37tWOWgpfBAOk4nY43c_Qtg7gCu9DFvfrF4-jBleJIwg62RSuszQbiT-hNZBrmLoQhYSl7CxyUYQTigvM0GBknJ-CIT8wvAKh-RNS/s320/siegbeer.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXdcQjc80xuy2FLgHjcPsocNUaPYt-pgosLiLC8nMBqUmzhN_9SA-UkijdvP7L7a1qxIZHtYri2c6cjFDOUOpuKib0DoBCSfsDy8Iro7jqkW22SO5fMqVl8c0fqckw3DsVxVrcF2jZl0GZ/s1600/sunset1.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiXdcQjc80xuy2FLgHjcPsocNUaPYt-pgosLiLC8nMBqUmzhN_9SA-UkijdvP7L7a1qxIZHtYri2c6cjFDOUOpuKib0DoBCSfsDy8Iro7jqkW22SO5fMqVl8c0fqckw3DsVxVrcF2jZl0GZ/s320/sunset1.jpg" /></a>
Markhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03558061978678166380noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-776020648992678506.post-76889511164321614762014-04-27T20:47:00.002-07:002014-04-27T20:49:47.318-07:00Australia ReconWe have taken a slight detour before returning to the boat. We had originally planned to sail to Australia this season, but it was a busy year back home, so we're not ready to push on that far. However, we decided that we would at least come have a look, and visit a few family and friends while we're at it.
Thanks to Corvallis friends Steve and Stef, we had a warm welcome upon arrival in Brisbane. Bart and Jenni picked us up and took us home to their "Rabbit Hole," a tidy apartment attached to the large home they formerly occupied while they were raising their kids. These generous souls also loaned us a very nice Jeep for our 2-week wander through southern Queensland.
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During our two days in Brisbane, we enjoyed our first taste of Australian wildlife. These rainbow lorikeets were in the neighbor's backyard.
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Our first stop was a few hours south on the Gold Coast, where we visited Nick and Saeko. We've known Nick's parents since before he was born, and it is great to see him as a successful young man with a beautiful wife and a nice home.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkMxrZ7fBmF3dY4TyDScV5FZ795-9BagT0kcGD-nE-Z_PcEvklw3GorO3Jvw2-cd8BPLAS7YsXqS4TaRn04KF0CAjt3s6gqCcU89djOFftzQ7RhuASVNgrDIjCZPEOImmT-LPF1yqlVok7/s1600/nicksaekodinner.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjkMxrZ7fBmF3dY4TyDScV5FZ795-9BagT0kcGD-nE-Z_PcEvklw3GorO3Jvw2-cd8BPLAS7YsXqS4TaRn04KF0CAjt3s6gqCcU89djOFftzQ7RhuASVNgrDIjCZPEOImmT-LPF1yqlVok7/s320/nicksaekodinner.jpg" /></a>
Next up, we spent 5 days visiting Mark's niece and her family in Byron Bay, just across the border in northern New South Wales. It was Easter weekend, and this wildly popular resort was bursting at the seams with beachgoers and a hundred thousand Blues Festival attendees. This was the first of many spectacular beaches we were to see.
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My niece took us on numerous outings to nearby towns, lakes, pubs, and the local farmer's market.
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We visited a few marinas in the area, including this nice one in Yamba. From what we have seen, dry storage runs about $700/month, a slip will cost us no less than that, and a mooring runs about $300/month and up. Luckily, there are thousands of places where you can anchor for free. A good place to cruise, but not a good place to leave the boat, as has been our habit for the past several years.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPqUI61jEuNKMIqQNwhlIQwlAboO_fE3Lai8FkB0kobIot8NP085y8-0_dhOP2JtzFbD4qO_y07UL015uwh91kdlk4YAdFeAtnGnf5UqgyXVVvisff-ybwdagH65fWyfQxnLjwuzod42XF/s1600/yambamarina.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPqUI61jEuNKMIqQNwhlIQwlAboO_fE3Lai8FkB0kobIot8NP085y8-0_dhOP2JtzFbD4qO_y07UL015uwh91kdlk4YAdFeAtnGnf5UqgyXVVvisff-ybwdagH65fWyfQxnLjwuzod42XF/s320/yambamarina.jpg" /></a>
I also did my first freefall skydive in Byron (I had done a static-line jump many years ago), along with my niece and a few of her friends. This was a great place for the experience, with warm temperatures and terrific scenery.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyVobNQYHQJARmUq5QH9F7PO5XJHy3H0D49f3TAmF_HCsgBysSK7uzqezgQdhfwAwZWyGQDNexOTbau1RdPm-V9RjbZQZavvmwZpDwwOb7wHRUNOD1bMamgYZ1mfXRk8JwrGVkbxRnZziY/s1600/skydive.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiyVobNQYHQJARmUq5QH9F7PO5XJHy3H0D49f3TAmF_HCsgBysSK7uzqezgQdhfwAwZWyGQDNexOTbau1RdPm-V9RjbZQZavvmwZpDwwOb7wHRUNOD1bMamgYZ1mfXRk8JwrGVkbxRnZziY/s320/skydive.jpg" /></a>
From Byron, we returned north into Queensland, stopping at the Currumbin Wildlife Sanctuary,
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then heading past Brisbane into the Glasshouse Mountains, where we did a short climb up Mount Ngungun.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiuN5560BIXeP9KJ2iwEtdvuB_TB8GGD8ObavedLa5h5oR0x4zMQuAWzIvTk56x_cIs4QlAX4gXHzBMEZ6ZKDFyosoDmDZZSstraj5AmLH4KZ-LYo7UAtO0VOqjnfmltSQr9lN9S7ncuGx/s1600/ngungun.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiuN5560BIXeP9KJ2iwEtdvuB_TB8GGD8ObavedLa5h5oR0x4zMQuAWzIvTk56x_cIs4QlAX4gXHzBMEZ6ZKDFyosoDmDZZSstraj5AmLH4KZ-LYo7UAtO0VOqjnfmltSQr9lN9S7ncuGx/s320/ngungun.jpg" /></a>
We continued north the next day, following quiet country roads,
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and stopping for a half-day hike along Booloumba Creek in Conondale National Park.
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Our northernmost point was the Bundaberg Port Marina and the mouth of the Burnett River, our likely landfall should we manage to sail here next year. We had a nice chat with Bill and Sue on <i>Dilligaf</i>, a boat we recognized from several years ago in Mexico.
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Our trip nearly over, we headed south again, stopping for another walk through a forest of old-growth gum trees.
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Thanks to Toni, a good friend of Bart and Jenni, we had a lovely stay in the posh beach resort of Noosa Heads. While the beach here is wonderful for swimming and surfing,
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the real attraction for us was the nearby National Park, with a forest full of birdsong and trees that were new and strange.
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While our return to Australia is uncertain, this brief trip has given us a much better idea of what to expect: exceptionally friendly people, some of the world's most beautiful coastline, endless hiking trails through lush forest, and unfortunately, prices that are considerably higher than most of the places we have visited!
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Markhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03558061978678166380noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-776020648992678506.post-22076987545164676422013-09-04T13:08:00.000-07:002013-09-21T14:10:30.462-07:00Haul out at Vuda PointThe boat has been at Vuda Point since last Monday. We reserved a long time in advance to get a space here, as it is a very popular place.
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This is the fourth time we have laid our boat up for an extended period, and the third time we have left her on the hard. So we are no strangers to the work involved, and always on the lookout for ways to make the process easier. It was an easy decision to rent a modest cottage from Vuda Point marina, so that we could leave the mess behind at the end of each workday.
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The boat yard crew, headed by Mo, were very easy to work with, and very gentle with the Travelift. However, they did not heed my warning that we had a deep fin keel. Consequently, the Travelift had to wait while they dug the keel pit another foot deeper.
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There are several people here who will look after your boat for you. We went with Mr. Bharos, a diminutive Indo-Fijian who had looked after our friends' boat <i>Tomboy</i> two seasons ago. He campaigned hard for our business, and we feel he will do a good job for us. He's already polished all the stainless.
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So here is how we left her, in a hurricane pit with sails and canvas removed, but with a full cover in place to protect from sun and rain. Mr. Bharos assures us that he will remove the cover in the event of high winds, and re-install it afterwards.
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Our last night in Fiji, we had dinner at the First Landing restaurant next door to the marina. The local musicians sang us the traditional "Farewell Song."
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It's been a wonderful seven weeks in Fiji. We look forward to another season here next year!Markhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03558061978678166380noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-776020648992678506.post-72507146790935287812013-08-31T11:30:00.000-07:002013-09-21T12:31:19.127-07:00road trip to SuvaWe got to Vuda Point on Monday, August 26 and immediately began decommissioning <i>Southern Cross</i> in preparation for storage on the hard. But I'll leave that for the next post. We decided to break up the decommissioning process with a road trip to Suva, Fiji's largest city. Its a 4-5 hour bus trip from Nadi, so we had booked a very economical room at the "South Seas Private Hotel." When we got there, the women behind the counter seemed surprised to hear we had a reservation, but eventually they led us to a sunny and clean, if somewhat threadbare room, the only one in the whole place with an ensuite bathroom. We enjoyed our stay in this hotel, and the location was very convenient to the attractions we were interested in seeing.
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First on our list was the Fiji Museum, only a few blocks away. It boasts a great collection of traditional sailing canoes, and a piece of the rudder from HMS Bounty, among other treasures. We spent a few hours here.
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From here, we walked along Victoria Parade towards downtown, passing Southern Cross Road.
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Farther along, we passed several Chinese fishing vessels, and wondered if these were some of the dreaded longliners who are currently decimating the world's oceans.
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Even in downtown Suva, the trees were covered with epiphytes.
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We had a delicious lunch at the Maya Dhaba restaurant, possibly the best Indian food we had tasted in Fiji. Afterwards, we made our way to the public market, the largest and most interesting market in Fiji. We made several trips back here during our stay.
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We had dinner at the Royal Suva Yacht Club, where we had hoped to rendezvous with our friends Ed and Fran on <i>Aka</i>, who had recently made passage from New Zealand. But we were unable to raise them on the club's VHF radio.<p>
Our last stop in Suva was at the University of the South Pacific campus. I had applied for a job here a long time ago, and was curious to see what it looked like. It turned out to be a vibrant, beautiful campus. We met students from all over Oceania, and at a crafts fair, we even met a couple of women from Caribbean islands.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl347o5SxBF9ajANVxa2VDIGpqNq4HtLVI9ScoUSjCPdDhzPj504x92gTHhFz5TdILenEHrZcxJIN6hQRSc7c0jeuMN3n_5Ibpdw-BwQBPhAy08WcPwjnfTF0DN5BO1MUcirZCIVMb5duK/s1600/uspmark.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhl347o5SxBF9ajANVxa2VDIGpqNq4HtLVI9ScoUSjCPdDhzPj504x92gTHhFz5TdILenEHrZcxJIN6hQRSc7c0jeuMN3n_5Ibpdw-BwQBPhAy08WcPwjnfTF0DN5BO1MUcirZCIVMb5duK/s320/uspmark.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBbriALvd2Enj6T35q_7iq3dW8O-QXw6oQ_RnjPvi5-5XRlZVcYTNxQ3i-A-1jlRr6h63TJzPdmu1zU_7vZlO_FvCkA3JUEQKlfuSF2mW9lks89bv7J_K5zkwtxvmUR0l8Hps4n2_Ao8r7/s1600/uspwomen.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgBbriALvd2Enj6T35q_7iq3dW8O-QXw6oQ_RnjPvi5-5XRlZVcYTNxQ3i-A-1jlRr6h63TJzPdmu1zU_7vZlO_FvCkA3JUEQKlfuSF2mW9lks89bv7J_K5zkwtxvmUR0l8Hps4n2_Ao8r7/s320/uspwomen.jpg" /></a>
We enjoyed our time in Suva, and will probably visit again next season.Markhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03558061978678166380noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-776020648992678506.post-69323048073462818102013-08-25T11:36:00.000-07:002013-09-04T19:07:47.150-07:00Koroyanitu National ParkWe still had a couple more days before checking in to Vuda Point marina, so we planned to head out to Musket Cove in the Mamanucas to get a taste of the cruising possibilities on this side of Fiji. But on the morning net, we heard our friends Mark and Anne on <i>Blue Rodeo</i> say that they were anchored in Saweni Bay, only a few miles from Lautoka. We hadn't seen them all year, so we decided to make a short detour to greet them and have a chat. When we got to Saweni, we put the hook down, and before we knew it, Anne and Mark had invited us to dinner and to join them on a hike the following day. We haven't really spent much time with other cruisers this season, so we welcomed the opportunity.<p>
Saweni Bay turned out to be a popular spot for Lautoka residents to swim and beachwalk. We took the dinghy to shore to check it out.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSJJE1_2l500c7OXvXfNkcaa3Dq5nKXy-5qo9CspzIVeXqX9gt-MogRBjII7EdzPNDlA6T-hY8g7_Wk11vBe_6g4GwCXIDpV097ehahjUG0234CgEyNZrmpWFNkB4_sBuwKTgyE_5Ko6Sp/s1600/girlwithnet.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSJJE1_2l500c7OXvXfNkcaa3Dq5nKXy-5qo9CspzIVeXqX9gt-MogRBjII7EdzPNDlA6T-hY8g7_Wk11vBe_6g4GwCXIDpV097ehahjUG0234CgEyNZrmpWFNkB4_sBuwKTgyE_5Ko6Sp/s320/girlwithnet.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4Ceb_qiy7O5LwqvQIRmnd6B8dAQS5AquIxVCg40tAlHYx1oSL-hUBTjrw7vXpe3G0xr2D_WYKnrAtnlGeo41_gAJR0Vq7flVneB2jkjaBpIa6lAEjA6JFedfonDZ1tM9-IYlU2VtNPUA0/s1600/sawenibathers.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4Ceb_qiy7O5LwqvQIRmnd6B8dAQS5AquIxVCg40tAlHYx1oSL-hUBTjrw7vXpe3G0xr2D_WYKnrAtnlGeo41_gAJR0Vq7flVneB2jkjaBpIa6lAEjA6JFedfonDZ1tM9-IYlU2VtNPUA0/s320/sawenibathers.jpg" /></a>
Once we had walked the beach, we headed inland. We were immediately in sugar cane country. There was a narrow gauge railway, and all along the line, tiny flatbed cars were being loaded up with cane. This is still by some accounts the largest industry in Fiji, and is conducted almost exclusively by Indo-Fijians like this man.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSOhgyKqMpz-G0kfb4FqiolmNhWKzY-94sI43XtVEYS7RTkBE0Q53NpRYu-r1-PlTIsHz7idrfnxMikrBYHdwtlAZ6Q2TW7o_2ywZw_hzTT2KHGQZ1rN2Le-KPky1tJ7xurPNJlOKA-SHH/s1600/sugarcanedriver.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhSOhgyKqMpz-G0kfb4FqiolmNhWKzY-94sI43XtVEYS7RTkBE0Q53NpRYu-r1-PlTIsHz7idrfnxMikrBYHdwtlAZ6Q2TW7o_2ywZw_hzTT2KHGQZ1rN2Le-KPky1tJ7xurPNJlOKA-SHH/s320/sugarcanedriver.jpg" /></a>
After a while, a minuscule locomotive came by, presumably to gather up the flatcars and take the harvested cane to the sugar mill in Lautoka.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9oqUZhi2gEaKBTcA8Je_4Gb0vt5DcZCu0aemBleZTYO1WCdTI0FIM4tMH2g1oOuqnqc-vAX3pc6aCMEYSgLVt-PEqTLLH5XcDxfLKorjrYEFx42MOtOSstc_31T2qF4kln2kZtRizvyui/s1600/locomotive.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi9oqUZhi2gEaKBTcA8Je_4Gb0vt5DcZCu0aemBleZTYO1WCdTI0FIM4tMH2g1oOuqnqc-vAX3pc6aCMEYSgLVt-PEqTLLH5XcDxfLKorjrYEFx42MOtOSstc_31T2qF4kln2kZtRizvyui/s320/locomotive.jpg" /></a>
Scattered among the canefields were small homesteads like this one, each with a well-tended garden.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhZEiDjYWtsk2hK9gamzH163_4qbwGkFmPqVHEuMBQNpErdOIDBXloNEY3hOZYrM6MjxYasZ5tc6f-3VCP8TK-wGJYdCMq5A3gIYYoq51H6PfGSLqELzo3avfeBimh5TFn1xh68JZ5DYKm/s1600/garden.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhZEiDjYWtsk2hK9gamzH163_4qbwGkFmPqVHEuMBQNpErdOIDBXloNEY3hOZYrM6MjxYasZ5tc6f-3VCP8TK-wGJYdCMq5A3gIYYoq51H6PfGSLqELzo3avfeBimh5TFn1xh68JZ5DYKm/s320/garden.jpg" /></a>
The next morning we joined the crews of <i>Blue Rodeo</i> and <i>Evergreen</i> (not the one that we crewed on 2 years ago) for a truck ride to the mountain village of Abaca, headquarters for a community ecotourism project called <a href="http://www.nationaltrust.org.fj/wp/portfolio/koroyanitu-national-heritage-park/">Koroyanitu National Park</a>.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjInWv-4xG_IYuTSoa_UDXSdZJVYMS-TqZdIK0cCNBGHlV0q5Iu9PBBGeLvzlTNWJ0eh_umSlGArDfrfyMn3yKJsN4IJeUkTWFQdly5mN3KEyXESLUOdsRg8cBYdQiqcyCrbgtbPCOBrpnJ/s1600/abaca.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjInWv-4xG_IYuTSoa_UDXSdZJVYMS-TqZdIK0cCNBGHlV0q5Iu9PBBGeLvzlTNWJ0eh_umSlGArDfrfyMn3yKJsN4IJeUkTWFQdly5mN3KEyXESLUOdsRg8cBYdQiqcyCrbgtbPCOBrpnJ/s320/abaca.jpg" /></a>
The village earns income from park fees and from providing a guide service and lodging. This gives them incentive to protect the natural resources rather than cutting down the trees. This park holds one of the last patches of montane cloud forest in Fiji, and provides important habitat for endemic birds and other threatened plant and animal species.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI2lXdE2hIGeRI78fj1gH0rYQlnZyM0p-KVN-nc8Dm2sTvNU-AVHuJOZqNai9lJNEGdpG7df-r-bNi9Okhfj42wB6N-gK8-rBbvF9CDz4jE3lywovRdfSrTbgIXhg4MaI9jmX3I5-QvL9H/s1600/abacakids.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiI2lXdE2hIGeRI78fj1gH0rYQlnZyM0p-KVN-nc8Dm2sTvNU-AVHuJOZqNai9lJNEGdpG7df-r-bNi9Okhfj42wB6N-gK8-rBbvF9CDz4jE3lywovRdfSrTbgIXhg4MaI9jmX3I5-QvL9H/s320/abacakids.jpg" /></a>
We paid our park entry fees and opted to do the hardest hike, to the top of nearby Mt. Batilamu, one of the highest peaks in Fiji. Jon and Heather from <i>Evergreen</i> are keen hikers, and they didn't want to take a guide along because it might slow us down. Vicki and I realized we were out of our league and probably wouldn't be able to keep up with this crew! It's hard to stay in shape on the boat, and we will have our work cut out for us getting back in shape when we get home.<p>
The trail started off through grasslands, and at one point we got off-route by following what must have been a cattle trail.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRtSkFVZaufOodFx3Gqjxgbnhp_oW-I4eBwkwXQXU5cYKLPysFNfxkVFNVJFgr5ZNTMmsZyrfsQwfCg1MTtIQUYrwXFGlpZV8oltgZ392dSGUB6jlvOzTDAK9MPQQ5SxF6wQIfDu4wFfFF/s1600/markhike.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRtSkFVZaufOodFx3Gqjxgbnhp_oW-I4eBwkwXQXU5cYKLPysFNfxkVFNVJFgr5ZNTMmsZyrfsQwfCg1MTtIQUYrwXFGlpZV8oltgZ392dSGUB6jlvOzTDAK9MPQQ5SxF6wQIfDu4wFfFF/s320/markhike.jpg" /></a>
Luckily we found the route again and climbed steeply up into the cloud forest. There were some beautiful Fijian kauri trees, and some beautiful birdsong.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5sCq1654FeUC668kdCbf-wetrKgbZTwgyh1Yz3LOgVgaeL0xlDn-howK9jl5mrWq_xHJJa5QqUTJCnkw0rPcWXbMFlvRD0OWMCRUlMIEQwDPD_ozH_eXQXyzPUhVvE4tobnhpMvRGncR_/s1600/forestgorge.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh5sCq1654FeUC668kdCbf-wetrKgbZTwgyh1Yz3LOgVgaeL0xlDn-howK9jl5mrWq_xHJJa5QqUTJCnkw0rPcWXbMFlvRD0OWMCRUlMIEQwDPD_ozH_eXQXyzPUhVvE4tobnhpMvRGncR_/s320/forestgorge.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1AUmUaF1W1j-VSWIXr3A2ibejvbA3IpHHa43V_QGJB1le8CPgjdtsIUcY5P7_ZyyoG8JtzP84NO3besu1DdtA5uv7R7h8amc0Ux0Q01MHIU1BCbNIpHdWCQbBrUV0-lEorUmVXKLhmj5a/s1600/kauri.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh1AUmUaF1W1j-VSWIXr3A2ibejvbA3IpHHa43V_QGJB1le8CPgjdtsIUcY5P7_ZyyoG8JtzP84NO3besu1DdtA5uv7R7h8amc0Ux0Q01MHIU1BCbNIpHdWCQbBrUV0-lEorUmVXKLhmj5a/s320/kauri.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGFZSSiBR68tUIizkUev5fBYyIJaPLaxBf7wZbMuuqVZVGKiifui9vp9-Q4bAy-sdCAi1RhSiy4VXab9VNi_zEP895aExthnTkePqIoSb8AnBiVCKgITio32dnvBTeOkE4IqjZCjHnLSpc/s1600/montaneforestsign.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjGFZSSiBR68tUIizkUev5fBYyIJaPLaxBf7wZbMuuqVZVGKiifui9vp9-Q4bAy-sdCAi1RhSiy4VXab9VNi_zEP895aExthnTkePqIoSb8AnBiVCKgITio32dnvBTeOkE4IqjZCjHnLSpc/s320/montaneforestsign.jpg" /></a>
The cloud forest lived up to its name today, and when we got to the New Zealand hut at the top of the mountain, there were only intermittent views of the landscape below. Here is a view back toward Saweni Bay, where our boats are anchored.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkIhpgKK15BiKeedHm4TfodH5_IO4e1sex0T6845VPSHktSVvzIHcLpw-Q5q9ruwNPgCqWnY4p6cMwJL20Z_2R2SCOzwnK6qIPt5Kb7erjZJnbx2zZUSUJy8gCDZsDfry__oo8c5XARjpZ/s1600/hut.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkIhpgKK15BiKeedHm4TfodH5_IO4e1sex0T6845VPSHktSVvzIHcLpw-Q5q9ruwNPgCqWnY4p6cMwJL20Z_2R2SCOzwnK6qIPt5Kb7erjZJnbx2zZUSUJy8gCDZsDfry__oo8c5XARjpZ/s320/hut.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8QOgiCOVQxauoAyIPTvAZx45gEgyYlko65HXU4Gdk7dxwIL6JFQW8hyk7uhhnBnZS5-Fq8f_wRPT1hvB4EPehoZfUYFVWu0OMLkOFkPLFpnEkU8aO3RJgRWTSmFQxRluXBI6yAxvvHYFL/s1600/saweni.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh8QOgiCOVQxauoAyIPTvAZx45gEgyYlko65HXU4Gdk7dxwIL6JFQW8hyk7uhhnBnZS5-Fq8f_wRPT1hvB4EPehoZfUYFVWu0OMLkOFkPLFpnEkU8aO3RJgRWTSmFQxRluXBI6yAxvvHYFL/s320/saweni.jpg" /></a>
Because we didn't have a guide, we didn't realize that the trail continued on another half a kilometer to a magnificent overlook! I'm determined to come back here next year, hopefully on a sunnier day.<p>
When we got back down to the village, we did a sevusevu and shared a basin of grog with the villagers. They were very friendly, as usual, and made us feel very welcome.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJtfHZpHDv2Iu_eIgKVCTalFPIMwlOCw7lr-dQbv1gwEyuXg1NmNNL3f7dNfLbLb8XPodYqXazeoXEAe8LyII02Btk218vywlXgGGFlH5AQ_QhWNdXgwMCRiu_OTqfGmm0fDsUzTm06qBu/s1600/kavaparty.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiJtfHZpHDv2Iu_eIgKVCTalFPIMwlOCw7lr-dQbv1gwEyuXg1NmNNL3f7dNfLbLb8XPodYqXazeoXEAe8LyII02Btk218vywlXgGGFlH5AQ_QhWNdXgwMCRiu_OTqfGmm0fDsUzTm06qBu/s320/kavaparty.jpg" /></a>
Markhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03558061978678166380noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-776020648992678506.post-51015138281446839452013-08-23T22:38:00.000-07:002013-09-02T11:35:51.840-07:00Over the top (of Viti Levu)We might have stayed longer at Makongai to snorkel among the giant clams, but we awoke to rain showers, so decided to push on. It was an easy sail to Naigani, where we anchored in "Picnic Cove" on the northeastern side of the island. We dinghied around to the other side of the island to visit the Naigani Island resort. We thought about doing a dive or an excursion to Ovalau from here, but the weather remained rather stinky, so the next morning we sailed on again, this time reaching Viti Levu, the largest island in Fiji. As we sailed north along the coast, we arrived at the rain shadow which makes the northern and western coasts so inviting to tourists.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPxLu9v84xMfPOsefnZ0KCyLP2MiFn7iyFq-nEp9axWDwO7426ZLML9YmQ62npgliKD60xSBcs62fT9sYVi0bcE06d6Ehd37mvvjfHb5zPlx0MaQLyu4SIHTj7vKYFgecRu_nUMnn_kzEv/s1600/ne+viti+levu.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjPxLu9v84xMfPOsefnZ0KCyLP2MiFn7iyFq-nEp9axWDwO7426ZLML9YmQ62npgliKD60xSBcs62fT9sYVi0bcE06d6Ehd37mvvjfHb5zPlx0MaQLyu4SIHTj7vKYFgecRu_nUMnn_kzEv/s320/ne+viti+levu.jpg" /></a>
Not only did it get sunnier, but smoother as well, as we passed into the protection of an extensive barrier reef. Glad there are a few channel markers along the way to keep us out of trouble. Most of them are just old iron rails like the one pictured here. Floating nav aids would be destroyed by cyclones on a regular basis.
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Our next stop was the difficult to pronounce island of Nananu-i-ra. There are several small resorts here, and the diving is reputedly quite good, so we expected to see some other yachts here. But we had the place to ourselves the first night. The next day, a charter boat came into the bay, and one of the crew soon dinghied over to say hi. Peter asked us if we wanted any fresh fish, and proceeded to fillet out an entire mahi mahi for us! He wouldn't take anything for it, either; he just wanted a break from the boat and to have some conversation. Another example of the friendly welcome that has been extended to us wherever we go in this beautiful country.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhIaXNAQRagPULKqXaKeqgbTdrcV6io1fXDaVVZhbKv9yIuxf8SSNaRWReaPTZoqhjPohaSY9yuFjBLLO0IrTTeJeryPIbPsNwnKggJTF7hY12AcbBEAtw0yM8N5YxhnejR1IEjNDs7U6I/s1600/petermahi.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhhIaXNAQRagPULKqXaKeqgbTdrcV6io1fXDaVVZhbKv9yIuxf8SSNaRWReaPTZoqhjPohaSY9yuFjBLLO0IrTTeJeryPIbPsNwnKggJTF7hY12AcbBEAtw0yM8N5YxhnejR1IEjNDs7U6I/s320/petermahi.jpg" /></a>
Before leaving, we went ashore for a hike. We met a number of friendly locals, climbed a very gnarly tree, and saw some very nice vacation homes, mostly owned by Australians.
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On our way back to the boat, we were invited in for tea by Jane and Charles. They divide their time between London, St. Martin in the Caribbean, and their recently acquired home here. That's a lot of travel! They also keep a sailboat in the Caribbean, and two more here! That's at least two boats too many, in my book.
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The next morning we set out along the northern coast of Viti Levu. There was very little wind, as you can see from this picture. The smoke in the background is from a canefield being burned after harvest. From here west, we are in the land of sugar cane.
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Following a recommendation from Jane, we stopped for the evening in the lee of a small motu. The water was like glass, perfectly reflecting the sunset.
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The next day brought rain, but no wind, so we motored most of the way to Lautoka. Along the way, a tiny bird came aboard for a rest. It clung to the shrouds for awhile, then found a more comfortable perch on a ratline. It wasn't bothered when I came near to furl the sail. We tentatively identified it as a female red avadavat, yet another introduced species. As it finally flitted off toward Viti Levu, I marveled at how such a small bird could find its way so far from land, and back again. How, and why...?
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzmg4VFTNRq-A8iHlx9YlkrMLJkNfX9PnZsE2b0juJaZimQGd7riN2N_hbzGvv1hjuDAuxfKxyoWIlfNB8GbrP5SLatl28wK3BnaNpyRXtI7eFlVjjosoy5_ODs8a5Enh8dqOTHgRmXklX/s1600/avadavat.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhzmg4VFTNRq-A8iHlx9YlkrMLJkNfX9PnZsE2b0juJaZimQGd7riN2N_hbzGvv1hjuDAuxfKxyoWIlfNB8GbrP5SLatl28wK3BnaNpyRXtI7eFlVjjosoy5_ODs8a5Enh8dqOTHgRmXklX/s320/avadavat.jpg" /></a>
Our next visit was from a colorful local fishing boat. We often get asked for cigarettes, lures, hooks, or other small items, but these guys only wanted to get close enough to snap our picture with their cell phone! Turned the tables on us tourists!
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As we approached Lautoka, one of Fiji's largest cities, we decided to anchor across the channel from town, where we had a nice view of a 3-masted schooner and several other fine yachts anchored along the town front.
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We dinghied across the channel and walked into town. Way more busy and crowded than Savusavu! It was a bit of a shock after 6 weeks in the outer islands. We had a nice Indian thali lunch before heading back to the boat.
Markhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03558061978678166380noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-776020648992678506.post-32375444485903033882013-08-19T17:07:00.000-07:002013-08-19T17:07:15.636-07:00MakongaiWe were lucky to have good weather during our 3 days at Namena, but it was time to move on. Our next stop was Makongai, a small island with a terrific anchorage and a sad history. It had served as a leper colony for several decades, until the cure for Hansen's disease made it obsolete.
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Though the leper colony ruins and the government fisheries office are here, you still need to do sevusevu as if it were a traditional village. We presented our bundle of waka to one of the fisheries biologists, as the chief was off-island.
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One of the local schoolteachers, Emily, offered to show us around. You can still see several old buildings and a number of ruins here, including a jail. As our guide Emily put it: "some of the leprosy victims were very naughty!" Most moving to me was the overgrown graveyard, filled with not only Pacific Islanders but a number of Europeans who suffered from this rather ghastly disease.
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Nowadays Makongai is more important as a center of aquaculture and reef restoration. There are tanks full of giant clams at all stages of development, and a few sea turtles and other threatened species. These blue and green clams are only about a year or two old. We saw a number of larger clams underwater in the bay, some nearly a meter in diameter.
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There was no Internet or phone reception here, so to conduct some necessary business we had to scale a nearby hill. We were able to communicate via the cell towers on Wakaya and Ovalau, the latter of which is visible across the channel.
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Several other boats came in behind us. We enjoyed a picnic and happy hour with Eric and Marie, who have lived aboard their custom cold-molded cutter "Pollen" for nearly 20 years. After raising their son on the Caribbean island of Guadeloupe, they decided it was time to explore further.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTgyf1wOfAxRjWgrjdCbv6zHfpVbNc6RBAYfMCHtV0optfcpHI79R_tFYqrtOUPJmanovkSh28K_iCQKB6RJOTI7xEGeAi9vZjL3Fy46WrilGfstWFwaUJQs-fQhXTnE7QsnEWPPeFYi35/s1600/ericmarie.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgTgyf1wOfAxRjWgrjdCbv6zHfpVbNc6RBAYfMCHtV0optfcpHI79R_tFYqrtOUPJmanovkSh28K_iCQKB6RJOTI7xEGeAi9vZjL3Fy46WrilGfstWFwaUJQs-fQhXTnE7QsnEWPPeFYi35/s320/ericmarie.jpg" /></a>Markhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03558061978678166380noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-776020648992678506.post-88250553353214827952013-08-17T17:00:00.000-07:002013-08-19T17:08:43.505-07:00NamenaAfter our day in "Paradise" we were ready for more adventure. Winds were favorable, so we decided to make a 45-mile passage across the Koro Sea to the marine reserve at Namena.
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This offshore reef system has some of the best soft coral and most diverse fish life in all of Fiji. We called ahead to make sure that the single mooring ball was available, and asked if they would take us diving. Although the small resort here does not normally accommodate non-guests, it has recently come under new management, and they agreed to take us diving, since none of this week's guests were divers. This was lucky for us, as sea conditions were too rough for us to dive from our dinghy.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaxCvdM9gAwlZK0PUMwxNb4KMo6-_6nrc7j8BKT_bNMkmsoZ1H3j3pQRw1SRLk8HcOumk29NzjiETYESrALrx67TYZs7tQmfL4291D9K2qiV_oJkWHj4GNX7WLqpmmN3DenG7wMAuu5-KW/s1600/divecrew.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjaxCvdM9gAwlZK0PUMwxNb4KMo6-_6nrc7j8BKT_bNMkmsoZ1H3j3pQRw1SRLk8HcOumk29NzjiETYESrALrx67TYZs7tQmfL4291D9K2qiV_oJkWHj4GNX7WLqpmmN3DenG7wMAuu5-KW/s320/divecrew.jpg" /></a>
We dove the same two dives two days in a row: "Grand Canyon" and "Chimneys." After seeing this arch, I thought they should have renamed this dive "Canyonlands" or "Arches."
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiENKdK_kRO42LwReEn3KhpC4p_e_x94u1R9Xy6YFh3Wi5DEpG5qbUlrhsbEgeF_K16t1-9-gOhI9vvxY7NoD0t9gqZ0flSRMDjHK-JM0N69bzrqBushTuWauo0PeOTzKSE07tkaU7Iozt/s1600/arch.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhiENKdK_kRO42LwReEn3KhpC4p_e_x94u1R9Xy6YFh3Wi5DEpG5qbUlrhsbEgeF_K16t1-9-gOhI9vvxY7NoD0t9gqZ0flSRMDjHK-JM0N69bzrqBushTuWauo0PeOTzKSE07tkaU7Iozt/s320/arch.jpg" /></a>
The soft corals here were even better than what we had seen at the Rainbow Reef last week.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2IvdeL4p0LBBKck6dpI4H_fWe6TZFAU22Jwpkm4Giijj-V4TtvMP9h0Z0gsPnn2iLk4Krpwfa3YX0QpozVYOOE1_gSct0Xs42e8DVZuaB_9ZTmoLauxG79IjVbF9xkzWRs-8RclM19Yhr/s1600/colorfulsoftcorals.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg2IvdeL4p0LBBKck6dpI4H_fWe6TZFAU22Jwpkm4Giijj-V4TtvMP9h0Z0gsPnn2iLk4Krpwfa3YX0QpozVYOOE1_gSct0Xs42e8DVZuaB_9ZTmoLauxG79IjVbF9xkzWRs-8RclM19Yhr/s320/colorfulsoftcorals.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqEAfvnG6SCd-sQkFvNKB4KwNf8w_7BjForQieFwT7OTpMkT0vCryOHW17kZtiVUoq3RADmz3sVooz7I86SET3MVWDNrXR2rhYd8VU_DSFxLZ54NqjBnoLa8PtxQTNLp0FzAWncEevRMUR/s1600/purplesoftcorals.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhqEAfvnG6SCd-sQkFvNKB4KwNf8w_7BjForQieFwT7OTpMkT0vCryOHW17kZtiVUoq3RADmz3sVooz7I86SET3MVWDNrXR2rhYd8VU_DSFxLZ54NqjBnoLa8PtxQTNLp0FzAWncEevRMUR/s320/purplesoftcorals.jpg" /></a>
Fish life was abundant and very diverse. We noted at least a dozen species that we had never seen before, including walu (Spanish mackerel). One of the highlights for which I have no picture was taking my regulator out and positioning my open mouth in front of a cleaning station. Several cleaner shrimp stepped gingerly onto my lower lip and went to work like dental hygienists! Couldn't hold my breath long enough for the full treatment, so I guess I'll have to schedule another appointment.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg25YDaGF_svwDYTKMjm6dCoZIoMLH5JCCkQgeQT7aSAhMn2VWaOKVTy-HdcTpO84YxK2Ysilap_LZeu_sdN9pPzXmKqL_3JwUZoO8VuIlslRloGsnMVJXmbViP8JplcrHVffV9EL23RwaD/s1600/snappers.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg25YDaGF_svwDYTKMjm6dCoZIoMLH5JCCkQgeQT7aSAhMn2VWaOKVTy-HdcTpO84YxK2Ysilap_LZeu_sdN9pPzXmKqL_3JwUZoO8VuIlslRloGsnMVJXmbViP8JplcrHVffV9EL23RwaD/s320/snappers.jpg" /></a>
We took a short walk on the end of the island after our dives were finished. There were some amazing trees here.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLfvHWv2avoBG5OjQ-6zUkZObvdhpqrPBei2OQbtZPi3aW-t9p64ue65GFQ-GqeYuiwpzfbqR5MkwZBbcZ-T9ZX0XP0xgbXg-LVMdB1aZkYWQMbzZvH9EdQNCNDHwAdfIYpwRZnZ4DEbKy/s1600/namenatree1.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjLfvHWv2avoBG5OjQ-6zUkZObvdhpqrPBei2OQbtZPi3aW-t9p64ue65GFQ-GqeYuiwpzfbqR5MkwZBbcZ-T9ZX0XP0xgbXg-LVMdB1aZkYWQMbzZvH9EdQNCNDHwAdfIYpwRZnZ4DEbKy/s320/namenatree1.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYlxJigkTcM9b7O1piY-kc11SbZp_u_evx0FVMexNnUelWGQVhJbbSC5mvTaH1s5wmRSP0NnQNGeMp6gE6H0LCznXZimFOJwHIpAPVQ8hPWD-TTVdJ3LTaRGMLY4pCaP9zarpI3xD5b9YD/s1600/namenatree2.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiYlxJigkTcM9b7O1piY-kc11SbZp_u_evx0FVMexNnUelWGQVhJbbSC5mvTaH1s5wmRSP0NnQNGeMp6gE6H0LCznXZimFOJwHIpAPVQ8hPWD-TTVdJ3LTaRGMLY4pCaP9zarpI3xD5b9YD/s320/namenatree2.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2RHgZOvbSWTIzE1FGjaLDxg1S3tG8JCkyoxhQ2L_GzTZwkVqKQRy_O1uBeMWOW5_jKE_v9QAqlgc8ppEShSC2Lde3wPbJ4urVusMfKAAbXV3bQbsu5AnAtIql9hLAB0cI8hYB9kG0jGHY/s1600/namenatree3.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj2RHgZOvbSWTIzE1FGjaLDxg1S3tG8JCkyoxhQ2L_GzTZwkVqKQRy_O1uBeMWOW5_jKE_v9QAqlgc8ppEShSC2Lde3wPbJ4urVusMfKAAbXV3bQbsu5AnAtIql9hLAB0cI8hYB9kG0jGHY/s320/namenatree3.jpg" /></a>Markhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03558061978678166380noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-776020648992678506.post-33246746322145445642013-08-14T16:49:00.000-07:002013-08-19T16:55:21.206-07:00ParadiseIt had been a great week at Viani Bay, but we needed to stock up on a few supplies, so we sailed back across the Somosomo Strait to the island of Taveuni. I rowed Vicki ashore, where she could catch a taxi to the supermarket, while I kept watch aboard the boat in case of a change in the weather or a problem with the anchor. After she returned, we headed for the south end of the island and a completely different experience. Based on recommendations from our friends on The Rose and Legacy, we decided to pick up the mooring in front of the small Paradise Resort. The owners, Allan and Terri, gave us a warm welcome and encouraged us to enjoy the resort's amenities, including pool, restaurant, dive operation, and lovely grounds.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbkmLz-khAv0PolLmDaVbNGiaZBan7xSNT2R3okoP_0wSq3fcQ_WMMfrTLpAE3Znzzxz02Z_9pQaK8n39FlBVT-KqJm-TXC-VBPWSWegJSLDXZ9d1GYfCZDjDZAiI78lDEgpX5EUkJYMof/s1600/paradise.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbkmLz-khAv0PolLmDaVbNGiaZBan7xSNT2R3okoP_0wSq3fcQ_WMMfrTLpAE3Znzzxz02Z_9pQaK8n39FlBVT-KqJm-TXC-VBPWSWegJSLDXZ9d1GYfCZDjDZAiI78lDEgpX5EUkJYMof/s320/paradise.jpg" /></a>
The next morning, Vicki had a nice massage at the waterfront bure,
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibFSxpYcBHUN4oaz3Up_nG7YWyTmpCXZOlA4QeatdDocDSQbOxfuA4Y-Oz6c78LDvDeFtRcR0XsbGHYXXybXrTsNqNM5MffOsTdRuvnNIiLCUtpsDAaJjjWdoVlAelCwj9TSg5vNMEUJ0r/s1600/massagebure.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEibFSxpYcBHUN4oaz3Up_nG7YWyTmpCXZOlA4QeatdDocDSQbOxfuA4Y-Oz6c78LDvDeFtRcR0XsbGHYXXybXrTsNqNM5MffOsTdRuvnNIiLCUtpsDAaJjjWdoVlAelCwj9TSg5vNMEUJ0r/s320/massagebure.jpg" /></a>
while I returned for a second visit to Nabogiono Farms, only 3km down the road. Bobby agreed to show me the parts of his farm that we had missed the first time around, including his eco-friendly farming operation and a patch of primary rainforest toward the upper end of his property.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpnh3kbiCpx3s73LA_bBIwAdYAesrjSoS_u3A0q16OjGXpdHq4SSatTj_pXG_1ZeCnF2OvTk-nFvs8xFWINoes2CE5knr3vVbZ_IVpXMMXvxHlaKlk671GTWQmMYGNaIgHOx7fQb5xlEL_/s1600/bobbyforest.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhpnh3kbiCpx3s73LA_bBIwAdYAesrjSoS_u3A0q16OjGXpdHq4SSatTj_pXG_1ZeCnF2OvTk-nFvs8xFWINoes2CE5knr3vVbZ_IVpXMMXvxHlaKlk671GTWQmMYGNaIgHOx7fQb5xlEL_/s320/bobbyforest.jpg" /></a>
While we didn't see as many birds as on the first outing, it was very interesting to learn about the wide variety of plants that Bobby tends, both natural and horticultural species. For example, I got to taste cocoa beans (you just suck the outside of the bean, the bean itself is bitter until processed), and heart of palm.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheQCO1NfG-Ku1Rfh3_qCTCmeaV3xIAnBzo9xehMl5Wrce9Re8ksynPc-btFp8xQ_kXZYxjQrA-5iBe4BwelxiNn2XeBikYUCCehB7s1j1OawpsYmTmA5zhEb55rrhLO0lelaj8HRSWcRH3/s1600/cacao.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEheQCO1NfG-Ku1Rfh3_qCTCmeaV3xIAnBzo9xehMl5Wrce9Re8ksynPc-btFp8xQ_kXZYxjQrA-5iBe4BwelxiNn2XeBikYUCCehB7s1j1OawpsYmTmA5zhEb55rrhLO0lelaj8HRSWcRH3/s320/cacao.jpg" /></a>
This was the first time I had seen kava being grown. It takes from 3 to 5 years before it is ready to harvest.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGlyDzz72w_p3QhmofgMa__XZnu04CFJ38GDZTr9dvAeva1B4-WPW1U3cT1xCWrBzw_BJWvvIjsk5Y_qNb-Eo-KHfCHtIX_9QvOpJf2AyNYyp5mAIR8A62uMlPlvMKZiMMVCscKPZ5mkB1/s1600/kava.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgGlyDzz72w_p3QhmofgMa__XZnu04CFJ38GDZTr9dvAeva1B4-WPW1U3cT1xCWrBzw_BJWvvIjsk5Y_qNb-Eo-KHfCHtIX_9QvOpJf2AyNYyp5mAIR8A62uMlPlvMKZiMMVCscKPZ5mkB1/s320/kava.jpg" /></a>
Here's a fiddlehead on a tree fern.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoi9em8esNataEcro1Wf3MdgudRr5pdjTKp3sKNAYg6qtxy1SaXopgxdqq8D6atEq6sRZez2paXUkrN9hyphenhyphennk_NRNYMMc33nR61kvauwd8LJsazoGY8a1SkecM1YxiFujjC4RKYpbFOJ46R/s1600/giantfiddlehead.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhoi9em8esNataEcro1Wf3MdgudRr5pdjTKp3sKNAYg6qtxy1SaXopgxdqq8D6atEq6sRZez2paXUkrN9hyphenhyphennk_NRNYMMc33nR61kvauwd8LJsazoGY8a1SkecM1YxiFujjC4RKYpbFOJ46R/s320/giantfiddlehead.jpg" /></a>
At the end of the tour, Bobby invited me to lunch with his wife Jiu. It turns out she is originally from Vanua Balavu, one of the more remote islands that we had visited a few weeks ago.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt5c_f3PzPyz_Xf06o1c3ed2WuEjn_SkoiPa9VByRVmkhgV-Pl0WAf2d1cJK3C0ZdTKr09nFGJ02czPn5415FBuF-dAkrKkRo3ISgzPM7a4qgSWr6mhDoiZxocujdGSuJxCrsZxkfiZmRk/s1600/bobbylunch.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjt5c_f3PzPyz_Xf06o1c3ed2WuEjn_SkoiPa9VByRVmkhgV-Pl0WAf2d1cJK3C0ZdTKr09nFGJ02czPn5415FBuF-dAkrKkRo3ISgzPM7a4qgSWr6mhDoiZxocujdGSuJxCrsZxkfiZmRk/s320/bobbylunch.jpg" /></a>
On our way back to the resort, Bobby showed me this enormous raintree that local villagers had attempted to cut down. He stood up to them in protest, as it was the last large tree along this section of the highway, and they had grudgingly backed down. This was a poignant reminder of the challenges Fiji faces in conserving its precious natural resources. Hopefully more people like Bobby will become involved with conservation and sustainable practices.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsaEEnNn4pz9DIIPz-MtWOVPHJEL_cac3QQaM8FVfiyzHhrxRe_BbHdbHJctMaWDmorwqaJL6SlUS0HLuxGZIkUVS0spvWBb6M4mgEaHdc3s1-kPzCRIcKAek5O2ZIe4YXL68T48UvTv6P/s1600/sawcuts.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsaEEnNn4pz9DIIPz-MtWOVPHJEL_cac3QQaM8FVfiyzHhrxRe_BbHdbHJctMaWDmorwqaJL6SlUS0HLuxGZIkUVS0spvWBb6M4mgEaHdc3s1-kPzCRIcKAek5O2ZIe4YXL68T48UvTv6P/s320/sawcuts.jpg" /></a>Markhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03558061978678166380noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-776020648992678506.post-55285950354820081062013-08-10T19:46:00.001-07:002013-08-10T19:52:53.433-07:00Viani BayWe had come to Viani Bay two weeks ago, but a southwesterly wind had caused us to leave before we had experienced any of its charms. We knew we would come back when the weather was better. This anchorage is very popular, for several reasons.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjihLumAMpoHZQaLQTmn64N4Y_kzJ-ZNIGvW5hi2x5iI8nqv0kYKL4DNcAzqH4HpIk7VaZ_RndZPCDfcdsPg_RgwwDvtVSJ1-pfSuIVoknLFsKiBe2NuDxC94b38ZUbZh3KQo5Cwq845Eoq/s1600/vianianchorage.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjihLumAMpoHZQaLQTmn64N4Y_kzJ-ZNIGvW5hi2x5iI8nqv0kYKL4DNcAzqH4HpIk7VaZ_RndZPCDfcdsPg_RgwwDvtVSJ1-pfSuIVoknLFsKiBe2NuDxC94b38ZUbZh3KQo5Cwq845Eoq/s320/vianianchorage.jpg" /></a>
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Not only is it a particularly lovely bay, but it is inhabited by some very friendly people. The first person to greet most new arrivals is Jack Fisher, who has done a lot of sailing in his day. Jack enjoys making new friends, helping them explore Viani's delights by both land and sea, and regaling them with his many interesting stories. He also generously provided us with fresh fruits and vegetables while we were in Viani.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq4O-0llYQ_tJZX_c-LMuDEuTfwuMFXpuZRCoFC6jG_vtIljPF7hI9cicGj-TT3s2OQeAcz-yjgb_zoPhn5GmDpuhhk_JJ9_bCEYQWmaFarg64RMBPMCnjeZfGAJlZTQv86jz2ZV7JVvLT/s1600/jack.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhq4O-0llYQ_tJZX_c-LMuDEuTfwuMFXpuZRCoFC6jG_vtIljPF7hI9cicGj-TT3s2OQeAcz-yjgb_zoPhn5GmDpuhhk_JJ9_bCEYQWmaFarg64RMBPMCnjeZfGAJlZTQv86jz2ZV7JVvLT/s320/jack.jpg" /></a>
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We were anchored close to Yanuyanuwiri Island,
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkyYxlivG31bjmFsBivwOBK9wDg-L9O-CF9cDvQlOk3oTRBJwygqQf037fFeXxTfyYmJW7NO6u0EjHJBqOHQiOG_NBs53EbkTUNnfZkoMXneLFP3mXw5ow_ygOGVLE4qdrrOIYVo7kiLJf/s1600/island.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgkyYxlivG31bjmFsBivwOBK9wDg-L9O-CF9cDvQlOk3oTRBJwygqQf037fFeXxTfyYmJW7NO6u0EjHJBqOHQiOG_NBs53EbkTUNnfZkoMXneLFP3mXw5ow_ygOGVLE4qdrrOIYVo7kiLJf/s320/island.jpg" /></a>
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inhabited by Jack' cousins Frank and Edward and their families. Frank and his wife Luji rowed past our boat on their way to get fresh water from a nearby spring, and Vicki asked if we could come and visit their island.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE6A0PUIG0w7tscqcki4McGnAZP10EY7k7YW105fV-xKdUKCYcopg3zt3fXUAVL-mzfVM2DxqWmaZF6ELBJwblZK3SLhpiNlCoRVEWHH_jXddVcCgTK3TfGOLDSvQRQZeRyB4l-apyMiNU/s1600/frankluji.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgE6A0PUIG0w7tscqcki4McGnAZP10EY7k7YW105fV-xKdUKCYcopg3zt3fXUAVL-mzfVM2DxqWmaZF6ELBJwblZK3SLhpiNlCoRVEWHH_jXddVcCgTK3TfGOLDSvQRQZeRyB4l-apyMiNU/s320/frankluji.jpg" /></a>
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We brought a couple of books to read to Frank's younger brother Andrew.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKeManxlUAj3Nx-q5GiJYQO8mZ-Xmy7O66T5-dXh_TXmEiJI9s5a2is7bTDW5ZvrVEBvRjHd6hDyKHMm77f9Rb0gQPo2XDJ3gEA0C3MMHSBMR4rNOqxky6WSqFT7-9_KutbEN7WJs7t_61/s1600/reading.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiKeManxlUAj3Nx-q5GiJYQO8mZ-Xmy7O66T5-dXh_TXmEiJI9s5a2is7bTDW5ZvrVEBvRjHd6hDyKHMm77f9Rb0gQPo2XDJ3gEA0C3MMHSBMR4rNOqxky6WSqFT7-9_KutbEN7WJs7t_61/s320/reading.jpg" /></a>
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Afterward, we took Andrew out to see our boat. He enjoyed operating the outboard on the dinghy, and was very interested to see the boat's main engine.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn0kW548q7tbvs4E6w4NXBkenixPajXGR25ooJLD77PQsOJCTufdkVNAFzdqthLVhkvoU-BuOPj8GFmbYtOLIRNX1cDs9uKCwO0udnSs_EquR0guVm4Jy1dgD6mtjZaZRgw-7wGNLU0osa/s1600/andrewengine.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhn0kW548q7tbvs4E6w4NXBkenixPajXGR25ooJLD77PQsOJCTufdkVNAFzdqthLVhkvoU-BuOPj8GFmbYtOLIRNX1cDs9uKCwO0udnSs_EquR0guVm4Jy1dgD6mtjZaZRgw-7wGNLU0osa/s320/andrewengine.jpg" /></a>
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Viani Bay has its own primary school, serving about 60 students, manof whom who are ferried to class by boat.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEIWiI2wh2wh0TC-tPi7udx29qMT0pTy_X9lGUpVbH0SmEYiN1NdfLBJ0iIJ4JHF9VfIZbUuUrMYQ6iSqMeWPwWaWQUzhZCQ2deqzj3QQnnWFWlTH5bMPvncelRURpBwtz1h8nFUpxdPwz/s1600/vianibay.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEIWiI2wh2wh0TC-tPi7udx29qMT0pTy_X9lGUpVbH0SmEYiN1NdfLBJ0iIJ4JHF9VfIZbUuUrMYQ6iSqMeWPwWaWQUzhZCQ2deqzj3QQnnWFWlTH5bMPvncelRURpBwtz1h8nFUpxdPwz/s320/vianibay.jpg" /></a>
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Along with Bob and Ann from <i>Charisma</i>, we visited the fifth and sixth grade class for an impromptu geography lesson. Wish we would have had a map with the Pacific Ocean in the middle, instead of being split in two as on most maps. I'm not sure the students understood exactly how we had gotten from the left-hand edge of the world to the right-hand edge. (ha!)
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE8xXS3Lxk_fMS1pO9TubYUWyOufUDCe70xZvg-LiRUfpWwcMZ5yCNzDTWLdI8vcWhHAdabKfD_VO4-RuCLaf6oX3yLhxXW-CrYBE0HCe1vQ9ukOItrjlrbbyCMh_6JNXxh0EcbOoWytrQ/s1600/classmap.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiE8xXS3Lxk_fMS1pO9TubYUWyOufUDCe70xZvg-LiRUfpWwcMZ5yCNzDTWLdI8vcWhHAdabKfD_VO4-RuCLaf6oX3yLhxXW-CrYBE0HCe1vQ9ukOItrjlrbbyCMh_6JNXxh0EcbOoWytrQ/s320/classmap.jpg" /></a>
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It was sports day, and we enjoyed seeing the close teamwork among students.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-4FM3TalDworOxAAmFUavLZvAaifsbJQYZqv19VAELqWEsjoeCY1lcAjrrrhBdJBOOdhKutmkop3HWIBkujQ3tNU0wmn5yuVA5sWGUAjjNoGRU4xMvUsJXrsIMxcJvU5FkPctRKUZCaPx/s1600/volleyball.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg-4FM3TalDworOxAAmFUavLZvAaifsbJQYZqv19VAELqWEsjoeCY1lcAjrrrhBdJBOOdhKutmkop3HWIBkujQ3tNU0wmn5yuVA5sWGUAjjNoGRU4xMvUsJXrsIMxcJvU5FkPctRKUZCaPx/s320/volleyball.jpg" /></a>
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From here, Jack led us on a long hike into the surrounding bush. Once again, I was struck with the size of Fiji's forest trees, like this raintree, and the epiphytes that grow on them.
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Jack told us about the beneficial uses of many of the plants we saw. Here's one plant whose stems can be used as a straw (wish we had had a drinking nut on the other end of the straw).
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEienOWBr1YBYyMweQ1yjZzt4MCmXnknpd0m3SAMmtue8oxlpMDlUCJbwU2AvtEH8_YdIe_qOA7KdW99L1zrMGoueBeJoJRyDfBG1fIrcTAlUdPPCd6C1WyhDafXIOQCqw9xHrEDAKcTpMgb/s1600/straws.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEienOWBr1YBYyMweQ1yjZzt4MCmXnknpd0m3SAMmtue8oxlpMDlUCJbwU2AvtEH8_YdIe_qOA7KdW99L1zrMGoueBeJoJRyDfBG1fIrcTAlUdPPCd6C1WyhDafXIOQCqw9xHrEDAKcTpMgb/s320/straws.jpg" /></a>
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Jack will also guide boaters out to snorkel or dive on the nearby Rainbow Reef. Bob needed to rent gear, so he, Vicki, and I were instead picked up at our boats by a local commercial dive operation.
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This is a well-known dive destination, and though we weren't here at the right part of the lunar cycle, we still managed to see some beautiful soft corals.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW8e_bKA1CqUO7b5GicMESXqIyhMiHbvxgw3ntCf4BO2TGdCOhTobZki8-RHrwzxizbmvWK5lqk7w5-97obWxA6B3SDlOtyKZCXsGzgrQS3_7AWEe5ZrGds8N-dbA4TeeWVXuLDHuMcugb/s1600/softcorals.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjW8e_bKA1CqUO7b5GicMESXqIyhMiHbvxgw3ntCf4BO2TGdCOhTobZki8-RHrwzxizbmvWK5lqk7w5-97obWxA6B3SDlOtyKZCXsGzgrQS3_7AWEe5ZrGds8N-dbA4TeeWVXuLDHuMcugb/s320/softcorals.jpg" /></a>
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This blood-red anemone was inhabited by a couple of Fiji anemonefish.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcEvQaNVbdEVfXBlXVwWcDUCjz1qU6r1EJJaxMQU76101j8ET9VnAk-hLLV6vpq-txI-e12OL5hYjb5wVQwTdFO_hoYXL0uST3_1ec2R5KR19ekqXAPT1n_ReV32RV4o_zaw2BIy_9eMo9/s1600/redanemone.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcEvQaNVbdEVfXBlXVwWcDUCjz1qU6r1EJJaxMQU76101j8ET9VnAk-hLLV6vpq-txI-e12OL5hYjb5wVQwTdFO_hoYXL0uST3_1ec2R5KR19ekqXAPT1n_ReV32RV4o_zaw2BIy_9eMo9/s320/redanemone.jpg" /></a>
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These were the first redtooth triggerfish we had seen since Raiatea.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9-Rta6B8nSUM5aQF9NYpHS1nFqadrM3naz9wAcXnXot79hoHgSttmuJFMTRrJnHY4Vw-OsCZiN7-9gfeGXPC6dwhAw9eztch_3ApoJo5-SOANzQR-_gshcJRvyf_bTkB8-0rhTAXemS4S/s1600/redtoothtrigger.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg9-Rta6B8nSUM5aQF9NYpHS1nFqadrM3naz9wAcXnXot79hoHgSttmuJFMTRrJnHY4Vw-OsCZiN7-9gfeGXPC6dwhAw9eztch_3ApoJo5-SOANzQR-_gshcJRvyf_bTkB8-0rhTAXemS4S/s320/redtoothtrigger.jpg" /></a>
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This spotted unicornfish was less shy than most.<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVb46kyoLZk2vx9eirZc0lKf4OQmbo1PQiFVI6duz-U5e47wQRzK3J7mCsVWlAPGRIA3_Xl_E2bD5rn77UnDANYSscbSpS7PdhwObw2-jjWXEoFKB0OFSaUWLLYyY4_U6FQyZSXrRSCAI_/s1600/unicornfish.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgVb46kyoLZk2vx9eirZc0lKf4OQmbo1PQiFVI6duz-U5e47wQRzK3J7mCsVWlAPGRIA3_Xl_E2bD5rn77UnDANYSscbSpS7PdhwObw2-jjWXEoFKB0OFSaUWLLYyY4_U6FQyZSXrRSCAI_/s320/unicornfish.jpg" /></a>
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Vicki got to see her first clown triggerfish. What a delightful costume!<br />
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsjFkaPe_jJqU7uh68kEvzk1C-wGfXodh5b4Onc5sSKvsitmMRalZAOxeMsC-miJvuQzzzw9XxK0jAmtSKWCiE9e3QsTQyV42byDFA2MIK2nKw3-aPpzKws6SFqasNSA1oiBVQRtL5sxWn/s1600/clowntrigger.jpg" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhsjFkaPe_jJqU7uh68kEvzk1C-wGfXodh5b4Onc5sSKvsitmMRalZAOxeMsC-miJvuQzzzw9XxK0jAmtSKWCiE9e3QsTQyV42byDFA2MIK2nKw3-aPpzKws6SFqasNSA1oiBVQRtL5sxWn/s320/clowntrigger.jpg" /></a>
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The fish were more profuse and varied here than anywhere else. We really hope to return here next season, but this season is winding down and we have to start moving west soon.Markhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03558061978678166380noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-776020648992678506.post-55879670560581237332013-08-08T20:54:00.001-07:002013-08-08T21:02:03.735-07:00TaveuniWe had a beautiful sail across the Nanuku Passage from Vanua Balavu to Taveuni. We invetigated the harbor at Vurevure, but it seemed a bit too exposed to the southeasterly prevailing winds, and was filled with pearl farm buoys. So we carried on another couple of hours to the northeastern tip of the island, near the town of Matei and the island's principal airport.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_g3BiaXjSqs14U9JxjyryXDKXhtjJtBHEWoN4d2yRNxZXSB05Nme3Q1XzIC1gCdfaInVFwJi_qLbGP9tyeBlg2dG8W20mxeFkIreixVgN_2hsnnbYcf7Ph3lcu6jbTjWFRtg_2GwkOVj5/s1600/taveunireefs.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_g3BiaXjSqs14U9JxjyryXDKXhtjJtBHEWoN4d2yRNxZXSB05Nme3Q1XzIC1gCdfaInVFwJi_qLbGP9tyeBlg2dG8W20mxeFkIreixVgN_2hsnnbYcf7Ph3lcu6jbTjWFRtg_2GwkOVj5/s320/taveunireefs.jpg" /></a>
We had been given the name of a local man who likes to guide cruisers around (for a reasonable fee). We immediately hit it off with Wani, who told us he was the chief of nearby Wiwi village. One of the first places we wanted to visit was the Italian restaurant, where we had heard there was great pizza. Wani told us his daughter Lydia worked there!
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZsjmI1a2CrJHAiAq8Fa4J4PDHVoS_fUV2pvfGwT4UMJDxxSTcONa_69tHREOFiPAfSE0PYf9g8BnY9SWInU2Ki_KLPGmFXfQUSWtrqQytUPvWRWUBu80g8zBlmDVtimleUFuNcQBExpHb/s1600/wanilydia.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgZsjmI1a2CrJHAiAq8Fa4J4PDHVoS_fUV2pvfGwT4UMJDxxSTcONa_69tHREOFiPAfSE0PYf9g8BnY9SWInU2Ki_KLPGmFXfQUSWtrqQytUPvWRWUBu80g8zBlmDVtimleUFuNcQBExpHb/s320/wanilydia.jpg" /></a>
There is a lot of protected forest on Taveuni, and villagers have developed several ecotourism projects to help generate revenue. This helps to offset some of the income lost by not developing the land, harvesting the forest, or clearing it for agriculture. We were only too happy to contribute to this cause. We hiked a beautiful trail through the forest to two waterfalls.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_CDlDNFKnJsv3R8DFu54gSCBWu-2XDNU_sKcwrCX_OlS8Dl1-V6A2FqCMkJgCWJs87u63Ub2XTiGWeh-VNyH09yQoihE-zA-AVClGW28UDqf8VCluX41YBuE7V7QCcZ9C9U6dhVy8odH9/s1600/vickirope.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg_CDlDNFKnJsv3R8DFu54gSCBWu-2XDNU_sKcwrCX_OlS8Dl1-V6A2FqCMkJgCWJs87u63Ub2XTiGWeh-VNyH09yQoihE-zA-AVClGW28UDqf8VCluX41YBuE7V7QCcZ9C9U6dhVy8odH9/s320/vickirope.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg27pyGTaRU9fRSVrHWGkjuNFR22QlYCrKQudBbMK6-vQssppbPE45zM9hHirihIWq5zkhd7Tyc2cV8bHX7Hhz817Lnc-owQ68Hwt4FEAX1TJV9XmQ9pXQzYlTI2SJuTtj-xunNamtlUN2o/s1600/markwaterfall.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg27pyGTaRU9fRSVrHWGkjuNFR22QlYCrKQudBbMK6-vQssppbPE45zM9hHirihIWq5zkhd7Tyc2cV8bHX7Hhz817Lnc-owQ68Hwt4FEAX1TJV9XmQ9pXQzYlTI2SJuTtj-xunNamtlUN2o/s320/markwaterfall.jpg" /></a>
On the way back down, we stopped to admire the view over the reefs, with Qamea Island in the background.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUzSOnODHoc3Gmrff_z2eHUYzjiG3bSK1bNAdQQNkx4mxzYYoPkQv2Gq-SNCc-eOV5uXgRgvKtvHXPuGWcjMrx6BVWiVkeZiEutuBuTBChrfFT8uwH9FOos0U2hQoHjaMOrNAYFpd4ROGS/s1600/taveunilookout.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgUzSOnODHoc3Gmrff_z2eHUYzjiG3bSK1bNAdQQNkx4mxzYYoPkQv2Gq-SNCc-eOV5uXgRgvKtvHXPuGWcjMrx6BVWiVkeZiEutuBuTBChrfFT8uwH9FOos0U2hQoHjaMOrNAYFpd4ROGS/s320/taveunilookout.jpg" /></a>
We spent the rest of the day shopping for produce and other provisions, and realized we needed at least one more day to see more of this beautiful island. Wani wanted us to see the plaque commemorating the location of the 180th meridian of longitude. While this is the designated "International Dateline" it runs right through Taveuni and the rest of Fiji, so for convenience they observe a single date and time zone throughout the country. Still, the plaque makes for an intriguing stop!
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD0qClaS6vIXuvsQ0CG2Vdi8-Y2xNQrQw2B7lfiMacF9qp8hzEiq_q5ZKlCy6em4jyq6MgN6lOgVfnvvlBHOnLZP-NDnja0y48euzmUdaxEmWq5px_fvG-dHR3Zlu3NJ_CQcRlSUHTrkCb/s1600/180meridian.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhD0qClaS6vIXuvsQ0CG2Vdi8-Y2xNQrQw2B7lfiMacF9qp8hzEiq_q5ZKlCy6em4jyq6MgN6lOgVfnvvlBHOnLZP-NDnja0y48euzmUdaxEmWq5px_fvG-dHR3Zlu3NJ_CQcRlSUHTrkCb/s320/180meridian.jpg" /></a>
We passed a school, and Vicki lost no time meeting some of the local students.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii5us5tlyPHGFxnqtCdvk9YZ5tgeeGr5SSNN3S_Ry6zNrn7mfzohvM91CsCaCclKiN-hkZI1BOWM2LXMKo_prpKE9F4qC3qX4d0-J7a4oO42hEzou46p_TSrGTruL5qdZLRmtW_x5Q1I20/s1600/vickikids.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEii5us5tlyPHGFxnqtCdvk9YZ5tgeeGr5SSNN3S_Ry6zNrn7mfzohvM91CsCaCclKiN-hkZI1BOWM2LXMKo_prpKE9F4qC3qX4d0-J7a4oO42hEzou46p_TSrGTruL5qdZLRmtW_x5Q1I20/s320/vickikids.jpg" /></a>
We had mentioned to Wani that we were interested in seeing the orange dove and other endemic birds of Fiji. So he drove us down a long and very rough road to reach "Nabogiono Farms" a private estate that the owner inherited from his grandfather. Bobby Shankaran was a delightful and informative guide, filled with passion for conserving the natural resources he has grown up with. He is self-educated, and is constantly researching ways to restore bird habitat, and to derive agricultural outputs and income from the forest without damaging it. We really enjoyed our time with him and hope to return here at some point. Bobby's dream is to develop a "Ridge to Reef" conservation project, and we want to learn more about this project.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHMdbR12-gSAYI9v9BBgN_EIfjTS4xHKIdSS9DnHmbTlpKiT98L2Gdo22p9IAFM25gfwTkee1hTmq6l5ZmuvqId42YmUj6l3UH5eyYdcs45XjVzU6zmv79s29PFDIYjxFrTN-t5bgVr4P2/s1600/orangedove.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHMdbR12-gSAYI9v9BBgN_EIfjTS4xHKIdSS9DnHmbTlpKiT98L2Gdo22p9IAFM25gfwTkee1hTmq6l5ZmuvqId42YmUj6l3UH5eyYdcs45XjVzU6zmv79s29PFDIYjxFrTN-t5bgVr4P2/s320/orangedove.jpg" /></a>
We could easily have stayed longer on Taveuni, but the weather was changing, and our anchorage at Matei had become a little less comfortable. We decided it was time to seek better shelter in Viani Bay, across the Somosomo Strait.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaal6burZAZaEHvP2ZhaSfbZc86-6dYUAyvPsLhQ0j3B_hV0lIrsOoSjmhH-S6vJURsjrpAMvHD1T655nUEoD0cey6gM6ME0ROttUaMLo2NodS_3nrAtOS2VzUN5WSCZgMCnjy7Pbxr-ts/s1600/vianifromtaveuni.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiaal6burZAZaEHvP2ZhaSfbZc86-6dYUAyvPsLhQ0j3B_hV0lIrsOoSjmhH-S6vJURsjrpAMvHD1T655nUEoD0cey6gM6ME0ROttUaMLo2NodS_3nrAtOS2VzUN5WSCZgMCnjy7Pbxr-ts/s320/vianifromtaveuni.jpg" /></a>
Markhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03558061978678166380noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-776020648992678506.post-71396698367912941752013-08-04T02:07:00.000-07:002013-08-08T20:23:48.916-07:00Still exploring...After having been turned back on our attempt to sail to Fulaga, we decided to explore some other areas on Vanua Balavu. Our first destination was Bavatu, a well-protected harbor on the north coast. Shortly after we arrived, this traditional Polynesian canoe came in from Suva. Crewed by a mix of Fijians and people from other South Pacific nations, <i>Okeanos</i> had been part of the <a href="http://pacificvoyagers.org/">Pacific Voyagers</a> fleet that sailed to Hawaii, San Francisco, down the coast all the way to Panama, and then back to French Polynesia in 2011-2012.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz-ci0pjlBEc6aiVLdZHuoQ70nqQfmnJklozMbmDiGJfvH5UH3f8GivOFuTQA7Ggx1snM8aG_S2V3434BchsZF4Mne-9g40s8XYAVApNWqQFIdjMnzFpX0iG3iQdP-8M1XgVu9yRohynek/s1600/okeanos.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiz-ci0pjlBEc6aiVLdZHuoQ70nqQfmnJklozMbmDiGJfvH5UH3f8GivOFuTQA7Ggx1snM8aG_S2V3434BchsZF4Mne-9g40s8XYAVApNWqQFIdjMnzFpX0iG3iQdP-8M1XgVu9yRohynek/s320/okeanos.jpg" /></a>
One of the main reasons we had come to Bavatu was to hike up to the plantation above the bay, and across the island to a viewpoint overlooking the Bay of Islands.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4_bHiJhAyUAX5NlcTgnPKyERzVeK-xUodsGTLjU0tD01NYG7L1AlXRctFFT2Ndk9gYIVJJVxLoxMqad6Sqt-jZ0PFvaK1vRRcFHFN5mpZ7jnWvOkpQRnLYFb1QAo51XoQtxZMiHxqoojg/s1600/vickiviewpoint.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj4_bHiJhAyUAX5NlcTgnPKyERzVeK-xUodsGTLjU0tD01NYG7L1AlXRctFFT2Ndk9gYIVJJVxLoxMqad6Sqt-jZ0PFvaK1vRRcFHFN5mpZ7jnWvOkpQRnLYFb1QAo51XoQtxZMiHxqoojg/s320/vickiviewpoint.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdRJVSFJ2A83ZBtCtI0v_rR11P0K8f-C51i73u4pT-Mqdki8gHMce2x1_FyseTJy4u9G7VzwHdfaLG-FtWQtDJtemxfoh9BB-1vo1yqiQhq3hSmRfVD-t1FrMS_3pNza4mVotnUQawutOI/s1600/bayofislands.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgdRJVSFJ2A83ZBtCtI0v_rR11P0K8f-C51i73u4pT-Mqdki8gHMce2x1_FyseTJy4u9G7VzwHdfaLG-FtWQtDJtemxfoh9BB-1vo1yqiQhq3hSmRfVD-t1FrMS_3pNza4mVotnUQawutOI/s320/bayofislands.jpg" /></a>
Our next stop, a couple of days later, was the village of Mavana, where we had to offer sevusevu for the privilege of anchoring in their waters and hiking on their land. One of the first people to greet us after we stepped ashore was Tevita, who is originally from here but at one point had been the mayor of Suva. He is one of several important Fijians from this village; the former prime minister and the head of the Methodist Church in Fiji are also from Mavana, and still maintain homes here. And little wonder - it is a truly beautiful spot.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGjpjPejVHSpQKZ8dKY5aPC2FS9l7K3ppKBX2UdG48YfkG_w0WmxKwiy2zTnvOdqiJgqUOUyFWAzIXX40HkIMUywMPKA2IPsA3BDNQ9GPj167-SpFT8pNFKPDjTA_gLQFpvy2awpeewdNP/s1600/mavana.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiGjpjPejVHSpQKZ8dKY5aPC2FS9l7K3ppKBX2UdG48YfkG_w0WmxKwiy2zTnvOdqiJgqUOUyFWAzIXX40HkIMUywMPKA2IPsA3BDNQ9GPj167-SpFT8pNFKPDjTA_gLQFpvy2awpeewdNP/s320/mavana.jpg" /></a>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG-p_OcknQyb8GMZ1cXEtz1mw9x0GsPrBYajAm9-xbylnMLeLlYskk786QZqfmZHszAE7EaXXLScHwcljGeuKq1G07P_m1p32w9cO5l9_MSkPMVdzPIOFk6UVfM4INuBzISu3Rc1X2OCuA/s1600/tevita.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgG-p_OcknQyb8GMZ1cXEtz1mw9x0GsPrBYajAm9-xbylnMLeLlYskk786QZqfmZHszAE7EaXXLScHwcljGeuKq1G07P_m1p32w9cO5l9_MSkPMVdzPIOFk6UVfM4INuBzISu3Rc1X2OCuA/s320/tevita.jpg" /></a>
Tevita asked us where we wre from, and mentioned that there was another American named Mark living here. After doing our sevusevu, we went to meet Mark, his wife Noemi from Manzanillo, Mexico, and their three children. They have a long relationship with Fiji, one of their kids having been born here. They are preparing to build a house on the neighboring island of Avea, in the left background in the picture.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDSsE58d1_bp3un3UpSuY7Hogi7fLRqcFEYT2xgdTbrNRcGsT7rl_na1fi7qBwnqUP4I22ETIMRJimjGHolYaCi_L6phpoJjTxGmopYbuliWpgstsyK6L58FkVm7AUQ26Ho9nrn6jYonB6/s1600/marknoemiavea.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjDSsE58d1_bp3un3UpSuY7Hogi7fLRqcFEYT2xgdTbrNRcGsT7rl_na1fi7qBwnqUP4I22ETIMRJimjGHolYaCi_L6phpoJjTxGmopYbuliWpgstsyK6L58FkVm7AUQ26Ho9nrn6jYonB6/s320/marknoemiavea.jpg" /></a>
After leaving Mavana, we anchored in a neighboring bay that is called Little Bay by cruisers, but I think the locals refer to it as Raviravi. This was a great spot for dinghy exploration and there was great snorkeling at an off-lying reef, where we saw huge lettuce corals and found this giant clam shell (which we put back after photographing).
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we were getting low on stores and fuel, so we finally had to head back to a slightly more developed part of Fiji. Our last anchorage was just inside Qilaqila Pass, from where we could make an early departure for our planned crossing to Taveuni. We are grateful for our brief taste of the Lau Islands, and hope we can return to this part of Fiji next year.
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAagRTlIydn4LyOm05XYtdtpYJPXU0XarUlg-Z8XzJLdmXeNHa_4Gq5iZzr1yxG4Ln6zJuvw9nvKOYjcNeScSq0-Ox7JiCz2tDRbHFo0XI_KNskbpbXB5nG4u_buJ_XI2OYoG_Zivl18Ie/s1600/cove.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhAagRTlIydn4LyOm05XYtdtpYJPXU0XarUlg-Z8XzJLdmXeNHa_4Gq5iZzr1yxG4Ln6zJuvw9nvKOYjcNeScSq0-Ox7JiCz2tDRbHFo0XI_KNskbpbXB5nG4u_buJ_XI2OYoG_Zivl18Ie/s320/cove.jpg" /></a>
Markhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03558061978678166380noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-776020648992678506.post-61522915361260262542013-07-29T15:50:00.004-07:002013-08-04T23:40:04.091-07:00The Exploring Isles
We were awakened by our alarm clock at midnight. With the full moon overhead, we raised the anchor, and motored out into the Tasman Strait. After rounding 2 small motus, we turned SE to cross the Nanuku Passage.
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By dawn, we were coming abeam of Naitauba Island, home to a religious cult. Vanua Balavu grew closer, until we could see the range markers for Qilaqila Pass. This pass is wide enough for superyachts, so we didn't anticipate any problems. Within an hour we had the hook down in front of Daliconi village, where we needed to perform our "sevusevu", the traditional ceremony by which outsiders are welcomed into the care of the local community and given the right to freely visit its waters. We dressed appropriately - pants or skirt below the knee, nice shirt or blouse, shoulders covered, and most difficult for us, heads uncovered. Hats and sunglasses are considered disrespectful. We rowed ashore with our bundle of dried yaqona. These are the plant roots that are used to make kava, a mildly intoxicating drink popular throughout this part of the world. We were met by Sam and his wife Lako, the chairman and secretary of the village's tourism committee.<br>
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They ushered us to a nearby house, where we sat down with a few village elders. It turned out that the village chief and the headman were both absent today, so the ceremony was somewhat abbreviated. Sam presented our yaqona bundle on our behalf. He then gave us a sheet of paper explaining that the village requested a donation of 30 dollars (Fijian) from each person, and that the money was used for community improvements such as school supplies, solar panels, and the like. There is almost no cash economy in these remote villages, so we felt that the request was reasonable. We were given a receipt for our fees. The rest of the ceremony was in Fijian, so we didn't understand what was said, but afterward, Sam told us that the village and its waters were now ours to explore at will, and that he was here to help us in any way required. He took us on a walk through the village, over a hill, and to his family's farm plot. He picked us a basket full of bananas, papayas, and eggplant.<br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbXfu8SyGrPDvobzBieLpfaD26me7VpOCwcpfS2Gfz2aRBiEoH5-SvejLvTfUEC8nHtKMsuXYzMOrb33YbaFrv_8bbAAujSlvQTwKFP3CEqPCJNOOakSrK5KHSbgGpMFpIMTOlh0h-LmV5/s1600/sammark.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhbXfu8SyGrPDvobzBieLpfaD26me7VpOCwcpfS2Gfz2aRBiEoH5-SvejLvTfUEC8nHtKMsuXYzMOrb33YbaFrv_8bbAAujSlvQTwKFP3CEqPCJNOOakSrK5KHSbgGpMFpIMTOlh0h-LmV5/s320/sammark.jpg" /></a>
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We were still tired from the night passage, so we thanked him and rowed back to the boat for a nap. Soon another boat showed up. It was the Australian-flagged catamaran Lady Nada. Then another, the Belgian-flagged Pamyra Ben, whose skipper Andre we had met in Neiafu a few weeks ago.
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The next morning, Sam and two other villagers collected the crews of the 3 yachts, and took us to explore the nearby Bay of Islands. This is one of the most photogenic places in Fiji, and the main reason that so many yachts come to this island group. The shorelines consist of solid limestone karst, heavily forested. The bay is studded with rocky, mushroom-shaped islets, sculpted into fantastic shapes.<br>
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We collected more people from 3 other yachts, and then proceeded to a succession of underwater and above-water caves, each more spectacular than the last. We also visited every narrow passage within the bay, and a huge colony of fruit bats.<br>
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On the way back to the village, Sam showed us their marine reserve, where they are culturing corals and giant clams. They will use these to restore areas of reef that have been damaged by cyclones. It was a beautiful tour under sunny skies.<br>
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That evening, Sam invited us to drink kava at his house. Andre also joined us. We got to take part in the preparation of the kava: pounding the roots into powder with a metal mortar and pestle, putting the powder into a cloth "teabag", and steeping it in water. The kava is served with a lot of ritual, and we enjoyed playing our part. Sam's two sons and their friends entertained us with some very lovely guitar and ukelele music, and sang in beautiful harmony. The effect of the kava was subtle and relaxing, and the taste was not at all bad. Hmm, hope this isn't habit forming!<br>
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The next day, Saturday, we followed Pamyra Ben to a sheltered anchorage in Ship Sound, the most intricate part of the Bay of Islands. Chiquita (UK) was already anchored there, and all 3 crews had a nice evening aboard Pamyra Ben. The 54' Morgan cutter has been in Andre's family for nearly 40 years, and he has sailed it all over the world, including Antarctica. Ding has taken Chiquita, a Sweden 50, nearly as far, single-handing much of the way. Compared to yachts like these, poor old Southern Cross seems like a daysailer!<br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh87EuugN1qRPkkGXHpn4a_4nK-9hqYtVhqR-nX7o3raQbHynro-7R8tOG6VgsnarfewejcwTphG59gVi3h1-dWW0wXY4tfAHVniKzQ9dP2B9gcItMV-Q1sQ6Z5hdaSJ00sQuek4bkAm-WE/s1600/shipsound3boats.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh87EuugN1qRPkkGXHpn4a_4nK-9hqYtVhqR-nX7o3raQbHynro-7R8tOG6VgsnarfewejcwTphG59gVi3h1-dWW0wXY4tfAHVniKzQ9dP2B9gcItMV-Q1sQ6Z5hdaSJ00sQuek4bkAm-WE/s320/shipsound3boats.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNQ9Iz4KG9ixPq6PVtjbSaOh3_URMrzSs0uDvwMnTUJNRhIMPkGwFv5jmu9V30fYwgSqe_R_VnXJhpB-mbKXbZi66amSM4Q3du-zaT0gU5o8Bz_WMABArDxY0xlxHXQ3kBSTCvmF2r-izK/s1600/shipsoundsc.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiNQ9Iz4KG9ixPq6PVtjbSaOh3_URMrzSs0uDvwMnTUJNRhIMPkGwFv5jmu9V30fYwgSqe_R_VnXJhpB-mbKXbZi66amSM4Q3du-zaT0gU5o8Bz_WMABArDxY0xlxHXQ3kBSTCvmF2r-izK/s320/shipsoundsc.jpg" /></a>
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On Sunday, Pamyra Ben took off for Fulanga in the southern Lau group. We may follow in a few days. Later, I tried without success to find a knife that Sue on Chiquita had dropped overboard. The water is only 8 meters here, but not very clear. Sue and I then snorkeled a nearby bommie, where she was surprised to see a 2-meter shark, her first.
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On Monday, Vicki and I revisited the bat colony in hopes of getting better pictures. We also scouted out a few more hidey holes capable of holding at least one yacht. Sue from Chiquita rode back to Daliconi with Bill and Sue of Lady Nada, and they all rode the truck to Lomaloma to do some shopping. They kindly re-provisioned us with eggs and bread. In the evening, we joined the crews of Chiquita, Sea Bride (NZ) and Midnight Sun (Australia) for happy hour aboard Lady Nada.
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Tuesday, with a GRIB forecast of E 14, we set off for Fulaga, in the Southern Laus, 125nm to the SSE. After 6 hours of calms, torrential rain, and then 15 knots on the nose with increasingly rough seas, we turned tail for Vanua Balavu.
Markhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03558061978678166380noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-776020648992678506.post-70452921861157742702013-07-26T11:44:00.001-07:002013-08-04T23:42:41.989-07:00Our first cruise in FijiAfter nearly a week of strong winds, we finally had a favorable forecast and motored out of Savusavu Bay. We raised our sails near the Cousteau Resort, and as we rounded Lesiaceva Point, we passed a beautiful yacht named "Alea" that must have been close to 30 meters long.<br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0OsPrwiRBfNy7kfpQD37paNRp0o1TwiAkq0LmC5sWOufpSkJY4Klx5qTQ6z_gDzkYRfZ1kgWJVx_3ZKwlIvrRDMkfYRKksPcYoOHRGAiyIIGT_yr_Fau9ilLYkW8ZmRAlGzRyWejbG3Ma/s1600/alea.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj0OsPrwiRBfNy7kfpQD37paNRp0o1TwiAkq0LmC5sWOufpSkJY4Klx5qTQ6z_gDzkYRfZ1kgWJVx_3ZKwlIvrRDMkfYRKksPcYoOHRGAiyIIGT_yr_Fau9ilLYkW8ZmRAlGzRyWejbG3Ma/s320/alea.jpg" /></a><br>
The wind was not strong enough for our easterly heading, so we fired up the motor and steamed toward Viani Bay, 35 miles away. We had heard a lot about the fabulous diving near this bay, and were eager to experience it. But when we got there, we were disappointed to find that conditions in the anchorage were not so nice - the water was murky, the SW wind kicked up a steep chop, and boats were anchored in fairly deep water, close to a reefy lee shore. <br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3jpJHiAXh-4KVKCnf4v0yQC_JOA8M68cgmOnBGfEnRwe_6Q_3L2JiI162bvELREvALkQu6pJMsFlMT0UDErkBgfEYceiGPd38esrWHsiNvZyekN9JUwrFBnXrs1wmF1f1KGGTq2K0b22F/s1600/viani.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg3jpJHiAXh-4KVKCnf4v0yQC_JOA8M68cgmOnBGfEnRwe_6Q_3L2JiI162bvELREvALkQu6pJMsFlMT0UDErkBgfEYceiGPd38esrWHsiNvZyekN9JUwrFBnXrs1wmF1f1KGGTq2K0b22F/s320/viani.jpg" /></a>
<br>We spent the following day doing boat chores, hoping for better weather, but when a neighboring boat dragged anchor toward the nearby reef in the building wind, we decided to move to a mooring on the other side of the bay. Our second night was not much more comfortable, so we decided to move on the next morning. <br>
At the navigation class we had attended last week, Curly Carswell had stressed the importance of sticking strictly to known tracks and waypoint, due to the myriad poorly-charted reefs. This did not make for very enjoyable cruising, so we abandoned the suggested path inside the barrier reef, and headed into the more open waters of the Rabi Channel. Across from us, the verdant slopes of Taveuni beckoned, so we headed for a suggested anchorage near the NE end of the island. When we got there, it looked like it did not provide much protection from the freshening SW wind, so we carried on around the end of Taveuni, toward the small horseshoe shaped cove on Matagi Island, protected from wind and seas by the larger islands of Qamea and Laucala. The Tasman Strait kicked up a mean chop that soaked the forward half of the boat.
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At Matagi, we found what we had been looking for - a peaceful pond, with the anchor clearly visible and unencumbered by coral bommies. The cove was fringed by beautiful coral formations, and ringed by incredibly lush jungle filled with colorful birds, and fruit bats the size of redtail hawks. This is a private island with an exclusive resort on the other side, so we telephoned the resort to ask for permission to come ashore. They welcomed us to walk the beach and surrounding hillside, but asked us to refrain from visiting the resort.
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtJcNm9eM7j6wMFgCZo_2JKFbV4vBO0C16mMa_PWO6O9If1G4i2FRFf5fHf7GzD00qp3zAKisaBx31ATa5YDFdyvDom60Ad9ylFux2FPHz18eKwayqOE4KYB2tFLKry2K3ysYtMYcOYffI/s1600/matagi.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjtJcNm9eM7j6wMFgCZo_2JKFbV4vBO0C16mMa_PWO6O9If1G4i2FRFf5fHf7GzD00qp3zAKisaBx31ATa5YDFdyvDom60Ad9ylFux2FPHz18eKwayqOE4KYB2tFLKry2K3ysYtMYcOYffI/s320/matagi.jpg" /></a>
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We spent two days snorkeling here, and dinghied all the way around the island. We could easily have spent more time here, but we decided to take advantage of calm conditions to head to the Northern Lau islands, about 50 miles away in what is normally the upwind direction.Markhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03558061978678166380noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-776020648992678506.post-48580474677033936282013-07-22T11:39:00.000-07:002013-08-04T23:43:08.258-07:00SavusavuSix days in Savusavu flew by. This was probably our favorite South Pacific port so far, considering comfort at anchor, services available, attractions, and cost. The Copra Shed marina had nice restrooms, showers, laundry, dining and shopping, and the moorings were only about US$5 per night. They handled our customs clearance and cruising permit, and provided a wealth of information.<br>
Dining was so reasonably priced that we ate out every night we were here, except when Sorceress shared some of their dorado with us. Our favorite restaurant served flavorful Indian curries and some Thai dishes.
The shops in town were very entertaining - maze-like aisles packed with an unimaginable variety of goods. One time in a store labeled "fishing supplies" we glanced up to see a rack of coffins overhead!<br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqfvVLtaDDz9nbMs2FdYh_bBxi_0L7OnnPeCmaBjuV2CJILXGvbnoQzGvhO7LYV9kFzfm_B3oggC81BvAforRvtSdFEYCrP4d8-bBqivIXUaxWZruKhdSpg5FHYH_2GRS-Iz4UReWXcjcB/s1600/barber.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgqfvVLtaDDz9nbMs2FdYh_bBxi_0L7OnnPeCmaBjuV2CJILXGvbnoQzGvhO7LYV9kFzfm_B3oggC81BvAforRvtSdFEYCrP4d8-bBqivIXUaxWZruKhdSpg5FHYH_2GRS-Iz4UReWXcjcB/s320/barber.jpg" /></a><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_MXzzi2da-4USfAGOQbSET4n_5rmnb7dB9NAwSWj4v37hKKqdVXNi9kuQUEQblU-CEJmE0E7v7R8XV4mCNWb7zUU1T0Cr5Zvr-yCWe3GRCR02WwUD6Zpj7L8FXWjvnPqxfzwJCHWwuYCk/s1600/store.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEi_MXzzi2da-4USfAGOQbSET4n_5rmnb7dB9NAwSWj4v37hKKqdVXNi9kuQUEQblU-CEJmE0E7v7R8XV4mCNWb7zUU1T0Cr5Zvr-yCWe3GRCR02WwUD6Zpj7L8FXWjvnPqxfzwJCHWwuYCk/s320/store.jpg" /></a>
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Perhaps the biggest treat was finding that Internet and phone are as highly advanced as in Mexico, and even more cheaply priced. For less than US$50, we got an Internet dongle for the laptop, Sim cards for the tablet and phone, and enough data and minutes to last us a month. Even the most remote islands have cell service, and all towns and roads have 3G.<br>
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiA_RFcaf6YXcpuOyaRjIeAURhYqp2h4ZRPqiHAhI9iyb16ycJhEb7ismgtJSczPwdVA3gNTyTOzGB_ELs6GmVTPQuQYohJThXXFFs-PggVP8JcIpHM6Qrut-K4ylzV0Tg3Z0sMb_7IPT8/s1600/ipadcoprashed.jpg" imageanchor="1" ><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjiA_RFcaf6YXcpuOyaRjIeAURhYqp2h4ZRPqiHAhI9iyb16ycJhEb7ismgtJSczPwdVA3gNTyTOzGB_ELs6GmVTPQuQYohJThXXFFs-PggVP8JcIpHM6Qrut-K4ylzV0Tg3Z0sMb_7IPT8/s320/ipadcoprashed.jpg" /></a>
Fiji is famous among cruisers for dangerous and often poorly charted reefs. So we invested a few hours and dollars in Curly Carswell's chartmaking seminar. He has sailed here for over 40 years and had a lot of valuable advice. He is also a colorful character. I loved hearing him open the morning cruisers' net (VHF radio) with a hearty "good morning, Savusavu!"<br>
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Based on Curly's recommendations, one of the things we needed to stock up on was yaqona, the plant root that is used to make kava, a mildly intoxicating drink that is very popular among Fijians. Outsiders must present a gift of yaqona to the chief of any village they wish to visit; we cruisers need to do this in order to anchor, swim, or fish in the waters adjoining any village. So we went to the "Grog Shop" and had several kilograms of roots divided into gift packages. Here's a picture of yaqona roots at the public market.
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We had missed touring the botanical garden in Tonga, due to inclement weather, so we were very happy to join some other cruisers for a tour of Flora Tropica, a collection centered around palm species from all over the world, and featuring some endangered palms from Fiji and elsewhere. Plants (and animals) endemic to small islands are at threat of extinction by invasive organisms brought in by humans, so operations like this one play an important role in preserving our biological heritage.<br>
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Jim, the owner, gave us a very interesting explanation of each plant - its unique properties and uses. Their forms were so varied, it was hard to believe that they were all part of the same plant family. The tour wound its way among some beautiful landscaping, and we worked our way up a hillside to a beautiful wooden deck with a sweeping view of Savusavu Bay.<br>
Another day, we boarded a deluxe intercity bus, far nicer than any bus found in the US, for a ride to the Waisali Rainforest Preserve, about an hour away. Unfortunately there was no ranger present when we got there, so we led ourselves along the steep but well-built trail, descending into a gorge filled with lush vegetation. At the bottom, we had lunch by a rocky stream, then worked our way back uphill. As at the botanical garden, we were enthralled with the beauty and variety of the plants growing here, so different from home.<br>
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Luckily there was so much to do, because the winds and seas were too rough to venture out. Finally, though, we got a "weather window" and set out to see some of what Fiji has to offer.<br>Markhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03558061978678166380noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-776020648992678506.post-18173954339958775312013-07-15T22:12:00.000-07:002013-07-17T02:58:05.623-07:00Tonga to Fiji, Day FourIn the wee hours of the night, we crossed the dateline, going from west longitude to east longitude. Somewhat later, Vicki saw the lights from a freighter passing astern of us, and the island of Taveuni to starboard. The winds and seas subsided somewhat, and by dawn we were happy to see Vanua Levu ahead. We made the turn into Point Passage at 10, we were attached to a mooring ball at the Copra Shed by 11am, and we were cleared in by the officials an hour later (our favorite questions on the forms were whether we had any dead bodies or Holy Water on board!).<br />
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We were very grateful to get this final passage of the season behind us (we will haul out for cyclone season at Vuda Point near Nadi). We have always recognized ourselves as coastal cruisers at heart, but accepted the passages as the only way to get to experience this part of the world. But I think we may be finished with double-handing. We just don't enjoy it when the conditions get rough, and as we move west it seems that it has gotten rougher no matter what the Gribs say. Next year we may look for crew for the passages on the way to Australia.<br />
On the other hand, we feel much better about our boat after this passage. She handled everything very well, nothing broke, and we always felt safe.Markhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03558061978678166380noreply@blogger.com1